Centroamérica - Dos Mil Diez

Today in Antigua

2010-03-11T11:24:00.007-06:00

This morning both John and I were up early. John had been thinking of doing some baking so he figured out the ingredients needed and we set out first for breakfast and then for groceries that he needed. It was about sixty degrees when we began our trek for the town square.

The picture to the right is a portion of the block-wide Palacio del Capitanes on the entire sourthern perimeter of the park. Its construction is somewhat unstable and cars are not permitted to drive in front of the edifice. However, pedestrians walk freely before its entrance and enter for business.

We walked in the direction of the Parque Central which was very near to a restaurant whose name in English would be the Countess. Today is Thursday and at this very place we opted to eat there is a weekly gathering of North American ex-pats. We walked quickly past the table which was marked "reservado" and found our own table in another room. Somehow or another, a group of ex-pats does not beckon to me. Nor was John interested in joining them. Why seek something like that when away from the USA? One can have that one-hundred percent of the time while at home.

I had a cheese and bacon omelet and John struggled through a very soggy couple of pieces of French toast. It reminded me of the very worst milk-toast that I had ever been served. He managed to eat about four-fifths of the serving. Along with each of our mains, we were served fresh fruit and I had whole-wheat toast. We lingered over our tea and coffee for the better portion of an hour before we decided to rise from our perches. But, before doing that, I managed to give sustenance to a large, squawky black bird. He (or she) was delighted with the repast.

In the Central Park one can find a fountain pictured to the left which today was decorated with roses. It was the first time I had seen it adorned in such a manner. The water spouts from the paps of four sirens which are appointed in a way that water issues to each of the four directions of the globe. I have included an image so that you too may enjoy the flowers, of course.

The church to the right of this narration is one that used to be a cathedral but is no longer designated as such even though it is still referred to as the Cathedral. It is still a church and abuts the central park on the eastern perimeter.

Known as Saint Joseph Cathedral (Catedral de San José), it is an important center of worship here in Antigua. The original edifice was constructed around 1541, but suffered several earthquakes throughout its history, and the original church building was completely demolished in 1669. The cathedral was rebuilt and consecrated in 1680. By 1743 the cathedral was one of the largest in Central America. However, the devastating 1773 Guatemala earthquake seriously damaged much of the building, though the two towers at the front remained largely intact. These have undergone restoration work, and the cathedral has been partly rebuilt.

From this area, we walked in a westward direction about four blocks until we reached the Bodegona, our super market in this village. John walked about the various shelves and selected maybe five or six items which we gathered together and headed for the check-out. We used double plastic bags in order to avoid disappointment on our way home. For the privilege of using plastic here, we pay a few cents for each bag. Most shoppers bring their own shopping containers and bags, whether to the Bodegona or to the central metropolitan market. And, Thursday is the important day for market. Both Ruth and Daisy are still over at the central metropolitan market fumbling through the wares. They will come laden with this week's bounty. Fruits and vegetables from the market are all processed when they arrive at home through two or three baths before they are fit for our consumption here. One never does a quick rinse from the faucet here. No, no, no!

On the way back home, we stopped briefly at what used to be a very good coffee and sweet shop run by the YWAM folks. It folded due to the questionable economy and lack of adequate support and a religious organization, the Camino, took it over. They serve breakfasts and lunches during the day and have a large space behind the restaurant area where bi-lingual services are held on Sundays at 10:30 (for two hours) and another service also on Thursday evenings.

From there we ambled up to La Merced church (pictured at left) where John and I entered for a walk-about. I was interested in knowing when the alfombra would be constructed inside the church. These are large displays containing colored sawdust, flowers, fruit, vegetables, etc. that are done in connection with Holy Week. Actually, the celebrations here begin immediately after Lent with processions, velaciones, alfombras, parades, bands and many other activities all in commemoration of the events leading up to Easter. It is a time when La Antigua bursts at the seams. One can be caught up in the fray too. There is much ado here during these weeks. Some of the long-time residents stay away while others join each year in the gala.

We found no alfombra and just a mere handful of the faithful lighting candles and saying their prayers before papier mache statues that never, ever talk back. But most of them have horribly sad countenances so there seems to be very little joy in their mute portion of that communion. I was just saying!

Outside the cathedral and with my baseball cap on again, I stopped at the entrance to the portion of the church which is a museum and asked when the alfombra would be constructed. We were in good fortune because I was told that this very afternoon at one would be the commencement of this soon-to-be masterpiece. I promise to photograph it in its infancy as well as its maturity for you to enjoy too. We noticed that, just like the siren fountain, the fountain adjacent to La Merced was beautified with roses. Another object that I shall record and share with you.

Then back to the Philippi compound where John has already begun his baking. He is allocating some of his time and talent to produce goodies that can be eaten by Ruth who is gluten and lactose intolerant. Of course there will be the majority output with all the poison additives for the rest of us. Now, the question is, who will live the longer?

I returned later in the day as I had found that the church should be opened and I had heard that there should also be an alfombra. The last time I had been in this church at Semana Santa, there had been a huge alfombra covering a good portion of the front right side of the church. It was done in mostly blacks, whites and grays.

Upon entering the little park surrounding the church, I saw that the flowers were as pretty as usual. I got to the church around half past two and I asked a group of ladies what time the doors were supposed to be opened. They told me at three. So, I waited and hopped up once or twice to photograph the fountain with flowers. There were vendors seated about the area and one approached me with a broad smile and offered me things to purchase.

I told her that I was not buying anything today but perhaps another day. She told me her name and said that I could always find her at the church. I told her that I would be looking for her.

Later in the month and nearer Good Friday, this park will be teaming with vendors and the walkways about the church will be packed with folks trading Quetzales for food and trinkets. But, today it was different and I joined an elite group in the park who were intent in some cases to sell while others were ready to worship and pray.

At precisely three p.m., the two large doors swung open and I followed the first entrant, a lad, into the sanctuary. I walked up the center aisle and went to the area where I had previously on another year observed the enormous alfombra. And, sure enough...there I spotted the first one for this year. This time it was in many colors and it had neither vegetables nor fruit in its design. This one represented the elements used in the rite of Communion.

The carpet consisted of three panels and, in total, its size might have been twenty-four feet wide by eighteen feet in depth. This will not be the only carpet so constructed in the La Merced church during the days leading up to Easter. I will try to catch them as they change and share them with you. They are different every year and are worthy of note.

Panama City to David and on to San Jose, Costa Rica and Guatemala City

2010-03-09T14:19:00.001-06:00

Our cab driver dropped us at the front entrance to Allbrook airport (this airport was once a US facility when the US had control over the Canal Zone). Since we had depleted all of our stash of US dollars, I ran into the airport and used the ATM the final time in Panama to grab some dollars. Went out and paid the driver USD10 and entered the half of the terminal devoted to Air Panama. Our bags were checked first by security and then we were sent to the desk to check-in for our flight. We had a quick check-in and were told to await the call for our final screening just prior to boarding. We waited until just minutes before the scheduled time of departure and responded to the announcement that we could pass through the sensors. We did so and took our places within the small lobby inside security. We had arrived at the airport at about half past seven and we were assigned check-in numbers of 5 and 6 so we were among the early arrivals. We waited another hour and nothing seemed to happen except that the wee lobby began to fill until there were no longer seats for the new-comers. Other flights for the same operator seemed to be operating as there were some who departed and some more who quickly filled their places. Finally, there was an announcement in Spanish that those of us who were bound for David should check our boarding numbers and if they happened to be in the sequence of from one to twenty-four, we should line up after the fine young lady who was standing at the door. We lined up and soon were issued out to a plane whose capacity might have been 35. You see, although not among the 24 individuals who were holding passes indicating that they were the chosen ones, there were three "very important" families with darling wee children who were included in our group. We did not ask and we were not told what special booty they possessed. But, the fact is, we made it on the plane and we were soon airborne and headed for David. And, so were the special three families. Of course they bore smiles.

We were in the air perhaps fifty minutes before we began to circle the airport for landing. Once on the ground in David, we were issued into the airport where we had previously been and had at that time encountered an Officer Willett. This time we had no bags other than our backpacks and we were met by a friendly representative of Air Panama and not Officer Willett who asked for all fliers in transit to San Jose to please follow him. We did and were checked into our continuing flight to San Jose. We paid departure taxes of USD10 each, filled out departure forms and were soon at the window where the passport person stamped our exit from Panama and took our exit immigration forms. Then, the backpack through the sensors and we were waiting once again for the next leg of our flight.

Our flight was announced and those of us awaiting our flight walked out onto the tarmac and boarded our flight. This leg was approximately one and one half hours in duration and our aircraft, as were all of the other ones in the country of Panama, was a propeller-driven craft. On the aircraft, we were given entry immigration papers to complete for our subsequent and penultimate stop in Costa Rica.

We pulled into San Jose without delay and were soon lined up for the immigration and aduana stops. I had marked my entry papers as passenger in transit as we were continuing on another airline from San Jose to our final destination, Guatemala City. It was good that I had thought of that because the tax provisions enacted by Costa Rica declare that users of the airport on all out-bound flights must pay USD26 on every departure to a foreign country. Since we were in transit, that law did not apply to us. We cleared immigration and aduana and exited the secured area of the airport. Our next flight was 6 hours away so we had some time to kill. We had thought at first about taking a city bus to the heart of San Jose but decided against it as we needed to check in to the secure area again and await our flight. It was either this or pay the USD52 between us. We opted to chill out in the airport, watching numerous arriving and departing airplanes from Spain, the United States, Colombia and several of the Central American countries.

We were directed by immigration to the line marked menores (minors) where we were given free passage sans impuestos (taxes) into the departure areas after we had once again passed security. Have I mentioned that every airport in Central America that we have visited has been equipped with wireless internet? There was one exception - the cinder block shed in Kuna autonomous territory. We in the USA could learn from that. Although many of our airports have wireless Internet gratis, many charge unreasonable amounts to connect. We visited the duty free shops and even sat down for a Burger King combo for me and a Schlotsky sandwich for John. Then, because the time was dragging, we found a Cinnabun shop which smelled pretty good where we each enjoyed one of their creations. Even though a bit doughy, it was tasty and we had tea and coffee to chase those delights.

Our flight on Copa was called and we lined up and were soon aboard our first jet aircraft since departing San Jose on our outbound leg. It was clean, the flight crew spoke and understood idiomatic English and we were given a sandwich and drinks. Those who wished had choices of liquor without cost. Our flight lasted for approximately two hours and we soon saw the beautiful and welcoming night lights of the capital city of Guatemala.

As soon as we landed, I called our landlords and friends, the Philippis. They were already waiting for our arrival and within minutes we would be in their SUV. We exited the plane and cleared immigration where John and I yielded our immigration entry forms and were given another stamp of entry for Guatemala which extended our legal time here for another 90 days. That is good because John would have been her more than the original allotted 90 days and he would have had to have made arrangements to extend in another way. We then awaited our luggage. John was lucky as his came first and I waited until nearly the last piece was delivered. Then it came and we headed for the aduana and the exit. We both lined up to enter aduana and were asked for our baggage tags. I found mine quickly and was cleared but John had misplaced his so there was a slight snag. He was asked to produce his passport which he did and he was cleared. Since I had tarried, the bag checker again asked me for mine again and I had to explain to him that he had already pulled it. He was unconvinced but finally he just told us to go. We did and, outside we found Ruth waving to us. It took no more than a minute to find the vehicle and we were on our way to Antigua.

Our flight (plight) from the San Blas Islands to Panama City

2010-03-09T13:00:00.001-06:00

We donned light rain gear and, with our packs in tow stepped into the large dugout canoe for the last trip of this visit. Our guides had encouraged us to arrive at the airport shed early for our flight which was scheduled at around seven that morning. We did hurry and the three of us alighted on land very near the landing strip where our intended flight should be bumping down within the hour.

We joined several other folks who were scheduled on our flight as well as another flight which was scheduled in just about a quarter hour after ours was to arrive. We signed a log in the shed which asked for our names, nationality, our weight in pounds or kilos and whether or not we were ticketed. In the two landing strips out in the autonomous region, if one is not ticketed, one stands by and if space is available, jumps into the vacant seat and settles one's account when one reaches Panama City. There are no metal detectors, no gates, no counter attendants visible at the airports out in this area. There is one man who tends to baggage that is in-coming and that to be stowed from the passengers. But John and I had only our backpacks as this was a very short and leisurely visit and it required only one change of dry clothing and a few personal effects. So, after we had signed the log, we waited about for the sound and sight of our twelve-place aircraft that was arriving from Panama City. Before long, we were rewarded with first the sound of the single engine and then the sight of her circular path as she approached the landing strip. We first spotted the aircraft over the Caribbean Sea and it circled onto the mainland over two small rises behind the landing strip. Down it swooped, easily clearing the rises and lowering on the end of the runway opposite to the end where we were standing. The prevailing winds are from the ocean so the plane landed into the winds and taxied down the end of the mainland which also coincided with the end of the mainland where the concrete block shack was situated.

Passengers poured out as did four crew members of the aircraft. The aircraft was also bringing with it luggage that had belonged to passengers of the day before who were sans their things because the plane's hold was too small to accommodate everything. We noticed a committee of the four crew members standing out in the front of the plane, deep in conversation. It seems that the total weight of all of us waiting was more than the aircraft could stand so, the short of it was that we were left at the airport together with a couple with a baby and one crew member without being boarded for our flight back to Panama City. As it was, the time was very tight because we were scheduled for a Panama Canal transit at 9 that same morning. The committee of crew continued for one hour during which another aircraft much larger in size of the company Air Panama had arrived, deplaned, unloaded cargo, loaded new passengers and cargo and had taken off. Still our crew labored over the apparent discrepancy, scratching their heads and becoming very deep in conversation.

Our outbound flight was supposed to have departed around seven and continued on to the other wee landing strips on the coast before it circled back and continued to Panama City. Now, because our names were not listed on the manifest as passengers from the location where we were standing, the crew decided that three of the crew would go to the next landing strip where they would unload passengers and cargo and return to our location to fetch us and the one crew member left behind. We were told that the crew was being oriented on either a new aircraft or a new procedure. Thus, there was double the number operating this wee bird.

We waited and finally the aircraft took off and was gone for about 40 minutes before it returned to the strip. The pilot got out and produced a bathroom scale and made each of us remaining there weigh and report our weight out loud. It was posted and we were finally allowed to board the plane. Once aloft, we traveled directly to Panama City. Half way to our destination, I could hear the rain begin to pelt the fuselage. It continued for approximately ten minutes and then we alternated between the white cumulus clouds and areas of clear, blue skies until we reached our destination at Panama City.

In Panama, whether one is taking a domestic leg or an international one, one's luggage is searched. Mind you, there is never a careful search but, there is a search. And, one must follow procedures when arriving else there will be trouble. So, we arrive in Panama and were directed to walk across the tarmac towards a door that appeared to be our entry point. We entered with back pack in hand and were told to wait. First the bags had to be searched and then our names had to be crossed off of a computer generated list of passengers to verify that we had, in fact, arrived and checked in. Perhaps three other names were called and checked ahead of John and then he was summoned to the desk. I accompanied him because we were traveling together. The clerk told him that he owed money for the flight. I stepped up and said that we had paid and we had our itinerary in hand to prove it. I was speaking in Spanish and I got a very rude remark from her saying that I was bothering her. I said nothing further but when we produced the paper, she sent it out for a copy for herself and one for the pilot who was closing out the flight and we were both given the green light to pass.

The island where we departed was humid but the heat of the day had not yet reached its peak but our destination in Panama City was both hot and humid and very uncomfortable. Fortunately we were both clothed in very light attire so it really did not matter.

It was obviously way past our connect time for the Panama Canal transit so we decided to hoof it over to the very fancy Allbrook Mall adjacent to the airport in Panama City. Upon leaving the terminal area, we were offered taxi rides but refused every one. There are no meters in the taxis in Panama City so one has to arrange for the price before entering the cab. For locals, transit across the city can range from two to perhaps six or seven dollars. If one is fluent in Spanish, it helps but even so, the cab drivers do make their money on tourism and the last two years have been a disaster here as elsewhere. So, for us, our fares if we should have taken the cab might have been five or six dollars instead of fifty cents to one dollar. We arrived at the mall and it was a great relief to get inside the cool common area of the shopping areas and food court. We even found a Dunkin' Donuts where we enjoyed the familiar tastes together with tea and coffee. We did a bit of looking around and John picked up one item before we decided to head for our hotel. Before exiting, I asked the clerk how much she would pay for a trip from there to the Amador portion of Panama City. She told me to pay absolutely no more than three dollars.

We saw a cab driver outside and I signaled and went over to her window. I told her where we wanted to go and asked how much it would cost. She then asked me how much I was willing to give and I told her three dollars. She agreed and we were all happy. She deposited us about ten minutes later at the former Serviceman's YMCA which had been converted in part to a sales area for artisans. We found it very poorly stocked and almost vacant of tourists. However, we did manage to locate some items which we collected and traded for US dollars. Then, it was only a fifteen minute walk to our hotel.

This would the the third and final visit and stay at the Country Suites by Carlson. And, on the last two stays, we were told that our rooms would not be ready until 3 in the afternoon. This visit was no different so we asked for a key in order to get into the business center to catch up on our e-mail and other items. We also grabbed a bite at TGIF which shared space with the hotel. We finally got our room and went up to the fourth floor where we both took extended times in the shower. It was great to clean up and get fresh clothing on.

We were scheduled to meet friends of our landlord at 4 that afternoon so I went down to the lobby to await their arrival. Soon John joined me and I told him that he could let me know when they arrived since I wanted to catch up on the blog or other Internet stuff. I finished in the business center and joined John once again and we waited for our friends to show. Soon Bonifacia and Victoriana showed up and we suggested that we go for refreshments to TGIF. They were happy to join us and we had a delightful time conversing in Spanish. We had to ask Bonnie several times to slow down. Her friend Victoriana also asked her to slow down so we were assisted by her slackening of speech. We bid them so-long and walked with them to the bus stop where we left them. Then up to the room for a wonderful night of sleep. Our scheduled flight from Panama City to David the next day was due to depart around nine in the morning so we figured that an arrival of half past seven should be appropriate. That meant we would have time for breakfast at the hotel and a taxi ride over to the Allbrook airport the next morning.

We were awake around 6 and cleaned up before packing all of our things for our flights back to Guatemala. Down we headed for breakfast which we enjoyed. The breakfast room had windows which overlooked the Pacific entrance to the Panama Canal but this morning we saw no movement or lining up of shps for transit. We finished breakfast and headed up to the room for a final swing through then back down to the lobby where we asked for a cab to the airport. Checked out and loaded our things into the cab and made it to the airport in record time...perhaps fifteen minutes.

Next segment will be Panama City to David in Panama, David to San Jose in Costa Rica and, our final leg San Jose to Guatemala City in Guatemala.

To the San Blas Islands

2010-03-07T21:47:00.001-06:00

Our overnight in Panamá went well and we were awakened at 4 in order to be ready for our taxi ride to the airport. All went well and the person who checked us in at the airport was the same person who had re-booked our canceled flight for the next morning. He remembered us and called us up with a smile. We got our boarding passes and assurances that the pilot would be showing up for today´s flight. Since I knew that there might be a problem with our return flight, I asked the person taking care of us for a computer print-out clearly showing what had been done and I needed something to show if there were any questions for our next day´s return.

We went quickly through security and into the departure lounge. Within minutes after six in the morning, our flight was called and we were issued out to a twelve-passenger high-wing, single engine aircraft. The company was initiating a new system or orienting new pilots and co-captains apparently since there were four flight crew instead of the normal two in the front seats. The configuration of the cockpit was two seats and, facing towards the front of the plane, there were four sets of double seats on the right-hand side of the fuselage and four single seats just across a very narrow aisle on the left-hand side of the plane. Those of us who were awaiting the flight filled all seats with the possible exception of one or two. I was seated in one of the single seats with a great view of the entire panel. It was great to see all of the instruments come to life as we began our journey. There was a constant conversation between and among the four airline individuals with a shuffling of papers and reports, etc.

We took off in hot and humid conditions and flew for approximately forty minutes from the south coast of Panamá up to the northeastern portion of the country. When we were within visual distance of the airport, we circled for a while over the beautiful islands dotted with gorgeous white sand beaches and palm trees. Then, the aircraft was pointed towards the rolling hills just inland from the ocean. We circled and turned over a couple of small hills and dipped deeply onto the concrete landing strip leading towards the shores of the Caribbean Sea.

We came to a stop at the end of the runway and turned towards the concrete block wall and gate that separated us from those awaiting boarding for the on-going leg and possible for the leg taking them back to Panamá. We exited the plane and were met quickly by the persons responsible for taking us by dugout boat to the lodge that we would call home for the next twenty hours or so.

Just as we landed and awaited our transport in the boat, another aircraft, far out-sizing our aircraft in size, landed with additional passengers for one of two lodges supporting the community that we were about to visit. From the second flight emerged several people, most of whom would be going to the other lodge. However, one lady, a citizen of the Ukraine, was going to join us at the lodge of our choice.

We were three individuals who would soon be loaded with our things into the boat. Aside from us, there were two in the boat, one running the outboard motor at the rear and one in the front. As we began our ten minute journey to our destination, we vied for position with another dugout canoe loaded with far more passengers which was bound for the sister lodge easily visible from our island.

Except for the main island which is small and densely populated with approximately 3,000 souls, all of the other islands in the proximity were either totally uninhabited save for the two islands where lodges are set up for tours similar to those we had booked. The islands are on a coral reef and the waters are a gorgeous emerald green and blue. There are waves that come splashing up on the windward side of the islands from the unrest of the Caribbean Sea. However, on the leeward side, there was considerable calm so we enjoyed the best of both worlds, so to speak.

We landed early in the morning and were shown to our thatched-roofed huts. Ours was set over the water on stilts and we could see the community in the distance as well as the other uninhabited islands and the one with the other lodge. We were instructed that there was both hot and cold water in the shower in the bathroom, a commode and wash basin. We were told to not flush anything other than human waste in the toilets but to discard toilet tissue and other items into the waste can beside the pot. There were two double beds made up for our use. Windows opened up towards the land and on the opposite side of the hut which gave us unobstructed views of the Caribbean Sea. There were two doors to the outside: one through which we entered from the land and one which provided exit onto the porch which was set above the water. On the porch were two hammocks. The doors and the windows pivoted on a central vertical pole or rod which caused the openings, when the windows and doors were open, to have wonderful and cool cross-breezes. We were shown the electrical switches for all the lights and for the overhead fan and were told that during the day there would be power from solar panels but, during the night, there would also be power available but this time from diesel generators which we later did hear humming gently in a soft lulling noise.

We were told that breakfast would be served in about ten minutes at the large circular palapa which was elevated higher above the water than were our cabins. We ambled over to the tables which were set for us and were given choices of eggs three ways with sausage, ham or bacon with orange juice, coffee tea and breads with butter and jams. After breakfast, we were told that there would be a tour of some of the uninhabited islands in the dugout canoe and that we could stop and go swimming if we desired. We were told that, from that time forward, when there was an activity, one of the employees there would blow a conch and it would mean for us to report for meals or for an activity. We were dismissed after breakfast and the Ukranian lady found her way to her dwelling as we also found our way back to ours. I spent the time curled up in one of the hammocks and fell fast asleep as I listened to the waves from the windward side of the island crash into the shores. We were within good eye-shot of the shore so we saw the lush and verdant jungles surrounding this gorgeous piece of earth. The islands were more than inviting themselves and soon I lost it as I began to check my eyelids for holes. The sun was barely breaking through the clouds as we landed earlier and it was overcast when we arrived at the island. But soon, the sun burned off the layer hiding us from its intense glow and I adjusted my hat so as to avoid disappointment from its burning rays. I also had a generous portion of sunscreen which I applied to the exposed areas of my body.

The conch sounded and I was awakened. It also stirred John from his nap and we were on our way to the general area where we were asked what we really wanted to do. Since the Ukrainian was unfamiliar with Spanish and since our guide knew very little if any English, I acted as an interpreter for her. She asked several questions about the community and some about the general safety of her money and passport. She also was interested in knowing if there was any possibility of purchasing marijuana. I did my best in getting information back and forth and the older of the two guides agreed to obtain five balls of the stuff for her. They told her (through me) that they would get if on the afternoon tour of the community which was scheduled for about 4. When she found that she would have to wait, she pulled out a USD100 note and waved it in front of the guide and asked me to question whether this might make a difference in getting it sooner rather than later. Needless to say, money spoke and she got her just desserts. So much so that she was passing Venus when the lunch conch was heard and we never saw her at meal time.

But, I am getting well ahead of my story. While we were still at the tables for breakfast, a dugout canoe with two Kuna men paddled up to the place where our dugout was tied securely to the dock. The younger of the two guides called us over and included us as he and the chief cook bargained with the fishermen for the acquisition of our food for lunch. The two fishermen were in a canoe made of logs and which seemed to be perhaps twelve to fourteen feet in length. They were clad in skimpy togs, maybe a t-shirt and a pair of undershorts and were barefooted.

Once the fishermen had paddled away, we asked for bottles of water and were given a beach towel and were loaded into the canoe. We circled our island and made a giant loop of our general area before we approached a beautiful white sand beach where the coconut palms were waving in the breezes. I took along the sunscreen and offered some to the overly white Ukrainian who gladly accepted and smeared some of the block onto the most obvious places. She had come prepared for swimming with suit in her bag but was not dressed for swimming when we waded from the boat onto shore. John and I were already prepared so hopped into the buoyant salty waters of the Caribbean. What a treat and how very comfortable the waters felt to us. They were ticklish cool and the breezes created an extra delight for us all. Meanwhile, the Ukrainian had ducked down behind one of the palms and soon emerged with her suit appropriately adorning her body. When she appeared, both of the guides hopped into the canoe and disappeared for about thirty minutes. When they finally showed, we saw them traipse from within the island itself and not from the boat. They had landed on another portion of the island so we followed them back to the canoe and were taken back to our island.

We were given a short lesson on the community which I tried first to understand in Spanish and then attempted translate for the Ukrainian. As I understood the narrative, these people had migrated from Colombia at some time in the past (perhaps centries ago) and settled on the coast of Panama. They are an autonomous people governed by a chief. There is one chief in their community of 3,000 souls who giverns, gives advice and, essentially runs the government. I understood the relationship of these people to be similar to that of the American Indian reservations where they are, in fact, a nation. The chief product of these people would be derived from fishing, agriculture or from hunting. In these islands, there are two other communities somewhat like this one. This one is the largest and has its own chief. There are two other chiefs, one each in the other communities. The community is connected to the mainland by a bridge. This is a critical connection as the schools are on the mainland as is all of the potable water. Additionally, administrative offices are there and I even spied a Mormon church constructed just to the side of the bridge. It had the tell-tale satellite dish outside of the front of the sanctuary.

The men and boys of the area dress as would anybody in a warm and humid climate in the Western hemisphere. The youngest of the male children had no problems running about the community as naked as a jay bird and this went for the wee girls as well. The women and girls in the community dress very differently. But not all of them are following their ancestors. However the majority of them still do and they can be observed at the community and some as far away as Panama City. There are three ways to reach the community: by air, boat or foot. John and I observed visitors flying adorned in their indigenous attire. The females who have continued to follow the customs of their specific culture have gold rings in their noses, have tattoos decorating the bridge of their noses, are wearing molas, have a red kerchief head covering and a very colorful wrap-around covering from their waist to nearly the ground. Many wear sandals and most have gold jewelery in their ears and around their necks. While most of the younger Kunas do speak and understand Spanish, the older inhabitants have absolutely no fluency in Castellano. Photography of general scenes in the community are perfectly acceptable and not forbidden but when one desires to take photographs of individuals, permission must be asked and granted in every instance. And, with that, generally one is generally expected to fork over one US dollar. To break this rule can land one on his way out of the community and away from the autonomous area of Panama. They chief will quickly expel anybody who breaks this rule.

There are six houses of worship on the island, including the Mormon church which is on the mainland. I saw a Catholic and a Baptist church there and we were told that there were a Seventh Day Adventist and perhaps Holiness churches on the island. While we did our afternoon tour of the island with our Kuna guide, we even spied two tall Mormon missionaries walking on the main street of the community. I say tall since most of the Kuna are far shorter than the countrymen in the balance of Panama that we had observed. To us they seemed a very friendly people and it was very easy to communicate. The young boys especially were like any group of boys that we might encounter anywhere in the world: curious and very friendly. They offered themselves for photographs on several occasions and, I am sure that they enjoy the US dollars that were given in exchange. The main central street of the community was lined with private dwellings where molas were hung out for sale.

John told me that this island had a far great occurrence of albinos than in the general population of the world. Here they are referred to as Moon Children. We observed at least two on our short time on the island. One of them was in a group of boys and he was sun-burned beyond imagination. I asked our guide if he had any protection against the rays of the sun and he told me that nobody on the island ever uses such. His lips were chapped until large blisters appeared and his upper naked torso was red beyond belief.

We were followed to our canoe for our exit from the island but before that, a portly gentleman called out to me in English. He wondered where in Texas I was from and I told him that I used to be from there but was no longer a resident there. He was a missionary from the Holiness church and had brought an interpreter along with him for his time there.

We went back to our island once again and wandered over to our island. We neither saw nor heard from the Ukrainian the entire afternoon. I suspect the five balls gave her sufficient potancy to send her traveling to Uranus and back again. She must have been purring. We settled into our wee shack and enjoyed the afternoon. I know that I went in and out of sleep as I heard the waves pound up against the pilings supporting our structure. The breezes were tickling as well. I noticed that a couple of lizzards were frolicking on my lamp. Was that rain that I heard pounding on the roof? Oh yes it was. What a wonderful and comforting sound that was. But, my one-third dry swimming stuff certainly would not be getting dry now. That was just fine by me as I had included large, plastic bags to stash my beach shoes and wet stuff if and when that should happen. But sleep called me again and the next thing that I knew, the conch was breaking our silence.

We headed for the main area where our boat was docked and there we saw our table set for dinner. As I mentioned before, we had fresh fish for lunch. It was served with the head attached. I was a good sport and, I must admit, it was wonderful. But, getting to our dinner...we had been set up both for breakfast and for lunch at separate tables. John and I both figured it was better to ask the Ukrainian if she would mind if we would join her. She was very happy for our company and we got to know a little more about our fellow traveler in this way. She was a part of a much larger group from the Ukraine and had branched out and gone on her own for a small portion of the trip. She would be meeting up with them later on in Costa Rica.

For super we were served lobster! With that we had a very nice tomato salad and, if I recall rice. We had fresh fruit for dessert. It was soon time for bed so I loaned the Ukranian a flashlight as she was fearful of the dark and she asked the guides to ensure that a large yard light remain on during the night. Before bed, I wandered outside on the porch over the ocean and I spied several flourescent items moving about the waters. I figured they were some type of sea life but they were beautiful reminders of the wonders of nature. We were not long in the land of consciousness that night and fell fast asleep soon after finding our beds. I awakened during the night and heard the wonderful sounds of wind through the palm fronds. Also, there were rains that came at night which was another wonderful gift.

The next thing that I was aware of was a call for Senor Bruce. It was already ten minutes to 6 in the morning and we needed to be at our main building with all of our gear packed for breakfast at 6. We got there in good time and ate our light breakfast with coffee and tea. By half past six we were met by our two guides and they said we needed to hie for the canoe for our transfer to the airport. We boarded in rain which had continued from our awakening time but were covered with parkas which shielded us and our belongings from the elements. In fifteen minutes we were waiting at the small shed that acted as terminal for this wonderful eden.

My next entry will cover our exit from the island and arrival for the last time in Panama City.

A halt in the blogging....

2010-03-02T16:22:00.000-06:00

My wee Dell mini is sick and I can neither download any images nor can I blog and publish so I will take notes and catch up on the narrative on the 6th after we return to Guatemala from Panama. Sorry folks but machines sometimes have a will of their own. I believe it is not fatal but it is a bug that I cannot ferret out. I am happy that all of my images reside on my external hard disc! So, until the 6th, so long!

A quick note as to our itinerary...we were to have flown to the San Blas Islands early this morning but our flight was cancelled. Instead, we took a city tour of Panama City and will overnight at the hotel here on the Panama Canal. We will try again tomorrow to get the flight. If successful, we will spend the day and night at the islands and return on the 4th. If we get back in time, we will take a partial transit of the canal and return to our hotel in Panama City. Then, on the 5th, we are scheduled to fly from here to Guatemala.

Greetings from the Panama Canal

2010-03-02T09:38:00.000-06:00

We drove to David in about fifty minutes and found our way to the airport road. But, before turning in our car, we needed to find fuel. The going rate in Panama, at least in the area where we were visiting was right at three dollars a gallon. I pulled into one station (Shell) and they were busy filling somebody else with 91 octane gasoline so we opted for another. We had been carrying minimal US dollars (the currency used in Panama) so together had little more than twelve or thirteen dollars. We found another station which had gas for less and, when we drove into the station, I asked if they accepted credit cards. No was the answer so we carried on a bit nearer the airport and found a Texaco showing that they accepted MasterCard, Visa and American Express.

There is no self-serve in Panama so I asked the attendant to fill first fifteen dollars, then a little more until I could see the gauge hit the seven-eighths mark. It had registered twenty-four dollars at this point so I handed him my credit card. He told me then that their machines were not functioning. I answered that we had no more than thirteen dollars at which point he took my card and tarried a bit. He finally returned and told me that it was impossible. I then asked him where the nearest bank was in order for me to withdraw dollars to pay him. He said he would show me. So, he jumped into the car and gave us direction in Spanish for us to located a bank with an ATM. We drove about a mile and I spotted a bank where I got dollars and paid him. He had the change ready in his pockets and then we drove him back to the station and continued on to the airport.

Checking the car in at Alamo went very smoothly and soon we were also checked in for our fifty-minute flight in a propeller Dash300. We were led out of the terminal area onto the tarmac and up the steps of the plane where we found our seats. The flight was not crowded but had more occupants than the one we took down from Costa Rica. Our flight went very smoothly and during the ride we enjoyed some Ruffles potato chips and a soda.

We arrived at the terminal (a former United States Air base) in Panamá, exited the plane, again walking on the tarmac into the terminal building where we exchanged our bag check for our bags. Then we exited into a group of taxi drivers, all who were offering us rides for varying amounts of fares. We had heard that the taxis here do not have meters and that each ride must be negociated. We had heard seven, ten and five dollars and I hesitated. We asked one driver if the cabs had meters and he shouted back at us that they did not. We ended up with him and John told him that with his attitude, he would do well in New York. He had been less than pleasant to us (of course for no apparent reason) and I did add something also that he had given us less than a happy welcome to his country. He apologized and went on with the apology until John told him that we would be happy to just drop the matter. We ended up paying five dollars for the fifteen minute transport.

We checked into the Country Inns by Carlson on the Amador section of Panamá which is sitting right on the entry to the Pacific of the Panama Canal. Our room was on second floor and we noticed signs in the elevator that there was rennovation being accomplished on the first floor (directly below us). We understood that this would cease at 5 so we did nothing until 6 when it was still pounding and sawing. John went down and we were assigned a new room on the 4th floor. When we went up there, there was only one bed so I went down once again and we were finally reassigned to a room on the top floor with a view of the canal. We watched from our balcony for an hour or so and saw large ships hauling containers full of items passing both ways. John read that the tolls assessed the ships can vary, depending upon their weight and displacement. He quoted the average tolls and it seemed excessive. But, considering the alternatives, it probably cut the total cost of sailing down under the tip of South America in order to pass with the goods.

The hotel has no restaurant other than a breakfast room but there is a Friday´s so we went there for supper. John had a salad and I had a hamburger. It was the best one since leaving the USA. Did I say lots of ketchup on the fries? We went up to our rooms and it was not long before I was fast asleep in one of the comfortable beds. We had set the alarm clock for 4 because we were required to be at the airport at 5 for our 6 a.m. departure.

Morning came quickly and with both of us showered and packed up, we trotted down to the reception area where we checked out and left our bags except for a small pack each that we would be taking for our excursion to the San Blas Islands. Our taxi was waiting our arrival and we made it to the airport in record time. No wonder, there was nobody on the roads when the moon was still high in the heavens. We exited and paid him ten dollars - the going rate from the hotel.

We entered the terminal and checked in for our flight. We noticed several women adorned in their typical attire, including beaded coverings of their lower legs and arms. Very colorful and a taste of what we were expecting to see soon on the islands. We were then summoned to go through security which was done quickly and then we sat in a small waiting area, awaiting our departure.

Our departure time came and went and reasons were given. It seems that the pilot had not shown but we were told in about five minutes maybe. An hour passed and still no pilot but the airline gave us four dollar vouchers which we used in the restaurant. We paid together and got a receipt showing a balance of $3.10 so John returned to trade that balance for postcards. Then we returned to the waiting area again where we were finally told that our flight had been cancelled. The airline would have made hotel reservations for us and would have booked us on the next day´s flight but we told them that we needed for them to help us rearrange our accommodations on the island (which were prepaid). They did that and arranged for us to fly out tomorrow. So, we returned to the Country Inn where we are presently.

I have arranged a half-day city tour which we are going to take at eleven today. We will meet our English-speaking guide in the lobby. I will have reports, I am positive, after we return around 4 today.

Happy March 1st from Hostal B&B Cielito Sur

2010-03-01T09:50:00.001-06:00

Spring in the northern hemisphere is only about twenty days removed from today but here in Nueva Suiza, spring is eternal. The windows are opened as is the door and we are wearing only Levis and t-shirts.We have packed our things and are waiting the magic hour of eleven when we are supposed to vacate our room. That will afford ample time to drive the fifty minutes to the city of David and to find fuel for our Alamo rental car before turning it in at the airport. Our flight is a national one this time so we were told that 45 minutes will be more than adequate time for check-in and processing. We anticipate a short flight from David to Panama City where we will stay overnight. We have some phone calls to make as our landlords in Guatemala have both friends and missionary associates who live in that city and we are connecting to deliver some things and pick up other items. We may not meet any of them on our initial pass through the city but we will be returning for another two nights at which time we will have more time.

On the early morning of the 2nd, we will take a cab to the airport for our flight from the capital city to Playon Chico or Ukupseni in the Kuna Yala, an autonomous region governed by the Kuna themselves, where we will be taken to the San Blas Islands.

It is time to load the car and head for the warmth and humidity of David. We are at an elevation of one mile above sea level and are descending to the capital of Chiriqui Province and the center of a rich farming region. It is hot and sticky all year long. This is mainly a travel stop only for visitors on their way to or from Costa Rica and is also a springboard for visits to Boquete and Volcan, Parque Nacional Volcan Baru and islands in the Golfo de Chiriqui.

My next post will most likely be from Panama City where we hope to be this evening.

B&B Cielito Sur

2010-02-28T17:07:00.003-06:00

Our time at this wee hostel in these gorgeous mountains in New Switzerland is coming to an end. We are occupying one of four dwellings on this coffee plantation or finca. Also living here are the owners of this property, the husband of at least partial Chinese descent and the wife who was born here in Panama of a North American set of parents. The wife's mother lives in one of the homes on the finca and is in her 91st year. She was born in Alvin, Texas but she and her husband decided to try Panama for six years and then probably go to Alaska. Instead of doing the move, they decided to stay here for the rest of their lives. So, this wee B&B was at one time was vested in the names of the parents of Mrs. Lee.

Mrs. Lee prepares breakfast for us each morning and, I have to be honest, they are some of the best delights that we have had for breakfast in Central America. Through their coffee finca runs a beautiful stream whose sounds we can hear day and night. There are flowers growing throughout the property and from this stock comes bouquets for our room as well as each table in the breakfast room. Breakfast is served from half past seven to half past nine and there are always two choices for main dish which changes each morning. Additionally, there are four or five types of bread, jams, four types of cheeses, jellies, peanut butter and cream cheese available next to the toaster. There is always fresh fruit, some cut up and some, like bananas, in their peel. There are cereals and granola on the buffet as well as two or three types of fresh juices. Coffee from their own finca as well as tea and chocolate are provided along with milk and yogurt. Water comes from springs and is potable here from the pipes.

Our rooms have high-speed Internet available and we do have TV and many DVD movies which are available for viewing. There are puzzles, books, games and many other activities available here. The owners have directed us to a couple of national parks as well as a private dwelling on which was discovered pre-Colombian artifacts and petroglyphs. The National Geographic featured this finca in its February 1950 issue and a copy of some of its pages were displayed at this site.

There is bird watching available here and one can view over 8 different types of humming birds come to two feeders that are placed within view of all diners at breakfast. They are unafraid of us and are not bothered by our movement. There are tiny ones and some about half the size of the robin. They come in all hues.

There are indigenous folks living amongst the Panamanians who still wear very colorful dresses. They resemble mumus and the adult as well as the children are so adorned. The men follow the western style of dress but some of the males do wear a woven straw hat that tends to set them apart.

There are Chinese shop owners or operators here in the small villages where we have gone for snacks, sodas and milk. The still speak Chinese to their little ones but manage a haltering Spanish with the villagers. The US dollar is the currency here in Panama and when one gives bills and there is change, we do get Panamanian hard currency in change instead of pennies, nickles, dimes and quarters.

The first day of arrival, we drove about five or ten miles until the road came to an end. It assisted us in our climb to Las Nubes (the clouds). At the end of the road was a national park but the gates were closed tightly. Our inn keepers told us that one would need to arrive before three in the afternoon to ensure entry. Chalk that one off the list! We have been told that the national bird of Guatemala (which is very scarce in that country) can be viewed here in Panama. Some occupants of the room adjacent to ours reported seeing an adult male with all its plumage and a juvenile on their walk-about earlier this week. I asked if they would share an image that they had taken and it was not good enough quality to even know that there was a fowl in the image, let alone a Quetzal. So, I passed on that one too.

On Sunday we rose early and had breakfast. I had eggs Florentine and ham plus all the goodies described above. John enjoyed French toast alone this morning plus many of the objects from the buffet. I asked the innkeeper wife about the possibilities for church this morning and she told me that the nearest one was a Seventh Day Adventist church. I told her it was a bit late for this week and we would already be back in Guatemala for next week. She told me there was Catholic and, she thought Methodist. I opted to not go this week. Instead, John mapped out a nice trip down to David and then up in the mountains again but, in a different direction. It was a much more heavily populated town where there was a jazz festival on the town square. Pity them as it was raining today. But, that neither hindered us nor those seeking to nod or tap their heels or toes. We all came. This area is heavily into agriculture with coffee fincas abounding. There were coffee trees laden with blossoms as well as red and green cherries. But, after we had driven several miles around the town, we decided to take our midday meal. John had read about a famous restaurant that had been visited by Teddy Roosevelt, Garbo and many other names you might recognize. It was in the midst of this town and just about four or five blocks from the town square where we had heard and seen the combo players in action.

We entered this old dowager and found our seats next to an open window. There were only two others dining at this time (12:30). We would soon be in for a regal treat. We were given menus and cold water poured in glasses. Next came a large portion of butter for each of us and two types of freshly baked bread. Then we ordered: John a piece of steak with garlic mashed potatoes and I, a piece of pig accompanied by a stack of dirty rice in which had been incorporated minced bell peppers of varying colors and onions. My pork chop was over an inch in thickness and very moist. We started our meal though with a bowl of onion soup.

John made a comment only after he saw and began to sample his delightful meal. He said (and I agreed) that had we had only the onion soup, we would have given it perhaps a 6 or 7 out of a possible 10 but when the entree or plato fuerte arrived, that 6 or 7 dimmed and we both gave a resounding 9 or 10 to the entire presentation. We had both seen that there were postres (desserts) on the menu but neither one of us had a speck of room after we had consumed our food up until that time. But, we tarried. And, the longer that we sat, the more tempting became the notion to at least look at the menu once again, just to make sure!

We needn't have asked because the waiter came to our table with menu in hand. Can you imagine? And, it took us no longer than two minutes to concur that two pieces of lemon meringue pie needed to be removed from their inventory. That together with coffee for John and black tea for me finished out a remarkable repast. We agreed that the vittles were more than good, they were superb.

But, to be honest, even though there are tons of ex-pats at this location, we longed to return to New Switzerland where the scenery is superior and there are far fewer folks. The area we visited is handy to goods and services but one is removed from the utmost beauty of nature...the calmness and the stillness. And, a place where you can be alone, together with yourself.

We decided to take our leave and drove the approximately 34 kilometers to David where we had spied a super market. John needed an eraser for his Sudoku puzzles and he was almost out of deodorant. He picked them up and we were on our way again. From the parking lot of the super market, we turned onto the Panamerican Highway and drove about 40 kilometers to our turnoff up into the hills and to the town of Volcan. We reached Volcan and purchased a quart of milk for our cold cereal tonight and then turned right onto our road to New Switzerland. Another 10 kilometers and we turned into the coffee finca and Cielito Sur.

Tomorrow we will be having breakfast and, after a drive down to David's airport, we will turn in our car and board our flight to Panama City at around 1:15 in the afternoon.

From San José, Costa Rica to David, Panamá

2010-02-28T07:13:00.003-06:00

We awakened in the comfort of our hotel Parque del Lago near the heart of the capital city. We got up, showered and packed out belongings for the last time in Costa Rica. Then we headed down to the restaurant to have our buffet breakfast. They do become rather hum-drum and offer very few surprises, especially when one has been having hotel breakfasts for weeks. But, the fresh fruit is a treat and, from time to time there are waffles or pancakes which are nice. Other than that, the surprise is that there is no surprise. When we finished eating, I stopped by the desk and told the fellow working there that we needed a taxi to the airport. There are city buses that run for a fraction of the tariff that we would be paying to the taxi driver but we did have a couple of hand pieces of luggage and figured it would be easier than trying to do the approximately 30 minute trip with riders in the public buses. I ran across the street and obtained 30,000 Colones which if exchanged for dollars would convert at the rate of 550 to one.

The driver was there at 8:30 sharp and we hopped into the cab and were taken quickly to the airport. Most of the traffic was headed into the city and we were going the opposite direction. The airport is situated at the end of the road so there is little need for a map or GPS unit once one finds the road. We unloaded at the International section of the airport, John paid the driver and we were ready to check in for our flight.

We entered the terminal which was new, organized and clean. We did not share the terminal space with an abundance of folks this morning and, after asking one person, found our AirPanama check-in place. Two men were going through our suitcases and backpacks in a most cursory manner. When completed, they attached the two zipper ends together with a plastic tie and asked us if we had paid our tax. John was of the impression that it might have been included in our ticket purchase price so went to the front desk to inquire. He was told that it was not included so we went to the tax desk where we lined up to finish that task. When we approached, we were told that we could pay in Colones, US dollars or credit or debit cards. If we opted to pay with credit cards, the Costa Rican government would take the money from our accounts in the form of a cash advance. We opted for a debit card because there would be no additional interest charges extracted by our credit card company. The cost for us combined was USD52. I realize that these costs seem steep to those of you who travel mostly in the US but you must remember that when you look at the base fares in the US, they are minuscule compared with the fare you pay when you finally get these taxes added in. For instance, a fare of USD78 round-trip between Phoenix and Chicago suddenly becomes USD158 when the airport taxes, security fees and other charges are combined. We are just not used to paying these fees apart as we often do in other countries.

Once having paid these fees, we passed quickly to the desk of the airline company itself and were given our boarding passes and we also deposited our checked baggage. Then, very quickly through security and into the duty free shopping areas and our eventual waiting area for gate 16. The terminal, as many here in Central America, provided for Wi-Fi gratis so John and I were able to catch up on the news and monitor our bank and credit card accounts. We were at a gate where it was necessary to exit the door on ground level and board a bus which would take us to our waiting plane. Our plane was inbound from David, Panamá and would be turning around to take us back there. We were scheduled to board at 10:45 but it was apparent that there was a delay since there was no stir at the boarding door even after 11:00 that morning. Finally, at around 11:15 there was an announcement first in Spanish and then in very broken English concerning our need to find the door for our exit. We did so and joined perhaps fifteen others on the bus. After a drive of about five minutes, we reached what appeared to me a Fairchild 17 aircraft. The same type as Howard Hughes AirWest used to operate in the western part of the USA. A high-wing plane with the belly extending as a pendulum below with two prop engines. When we boarded, John and I both got front seats and the others found their seats behind us. I looked at the safety card and found that this aircraft was a Dash300. Could have fooled me!

We had about fifty minutes of flying before landing at our destination. During our flight we had a choice of crackers, maybe raisins and a sticky-sweet candy bar together with juices, coffee or tea.

We landed at a very small airport in the western portion of Panamá very near the frontier with Costa Rica and exited the plane and finally entered the terminal. The temperatures were high and the humidity far higher. It was uncomfortable on the tarmac and far more uncomfortable in the stale and unconditioned air inside the terminal. Other than one girl, the two of us were first in line for immigration and customs. We waited for perhaps ten minutes as the one person doing immigration was finishing a telephone conversation. When he did terminate the call, he worked madly trying to sign onto the computer. This took several tries but finally he did manage to connect. He cleared the girl then both of us. He was friendly but just not rushed or in any hurry. We had a good chat, he and I and I even got a nice smile from him. We then walked over and claimed our bags and put them up on a table. The girl had chosen the other table and they were doing a once-over on her bag. She was cleared and we thought the inspector would come over to do ours but, no. He did somebody else. So, we moved our bags over to the other table. He first looked at my bag then asked me to open my backpack. I did and he inspected and passed me through to the terminal area. Then he took leave and left everybody standing. John waited and in about five minutes, he reappeared and John was also cleared.

We checked with Aeroperlas, our next airline for our connecting information on the 1st of March and got confirmation papers. Then we exited the terminal and walked across to Alamo where our wonderful Toyota was awaiting our arrival. We did the paper work and the clerk explained that there was mandatory insurance required in Panamá. We agreed and, with contract in hand, went out the door, jumped into our clean, unblemished car and sped off. John had all of our directions in hand and we followed them for about ten minutes. He told me there was a McDonald's and, without hesitation, we stopped and we both enjoyed our lunch. After that, we continued approximately one hour to our destination for the next three nights in the mountains in the hamlet of New Switzerland. We would be in the mountains, experiencing cool, gorgeous weather and we would be surrounded by absolutely stunning scenery. No more hot and humid here!

Our night at Pacuare Lodge and our departure

2010-02-27T19:40:00.001-06:00

We were told in our orientation that lunch on our arrival day would be served approximately thirty minutes after our arrival with dinner to follow in the evening at 7. During our lunch we were asked about choices of starter, main and dessert. I selected a Delmonico steak prepared medium. As I mentioned previously, our guides who had led us faithfully and safely to our destination were now working in the kitchen and at our tables. The food was delicious, nourishing, fresh, colorful and extremely appetizing to all of us and it did have a gourmet flair, no kidding. Coffee and tea were available to us in the common area at all times during our stay. We used water from the area which they assured us was tested monthly and found to be free of contaminants and microbes and perfectly potable. When I questioned whether or not it originated from springs, I was told that it was pure, mountain water. I then further questioned whether or not the indigenous folks had cattle or animals above the source and was told that they just did not frequent that area. So, we drank the water and two days after my intestines and stomach are neither back-talking nor rumbling with complaints. I suspect like one of Don's and Nance's landlords said, "we've been drinking it all these years and have never gotten sick" might also apply to the lodge on Pacuare river.

John and I hopped tables, first sitting with the Israelis then with some of the other guests who had not come in our original covey of humanity. Then, on the last day, we had opportunity to visit with some folks from Washington state and also some others from Montana. It was delightful to exchange stories and experiences with all of these folks. I know that we gained immensely and I trust that the others acquired something in return.

After supper we went upstairs which was illuminated by candles throughout the large expanse. There were some (mostly our age, more or less) who were attempting to ready by candle light but found the light inadequate. Those folks employed their flashlights which were supplied to all of us in order to find our way to and from the common area during the dark hours of the night. Both before and after dinner some of the group sat in a semi-circle on bar stools facing two of our multi-tasking guides as they went about tending the bar. It seemed to be a happy exchange between and among the participants and the guides seemed both honestly and happily engaged.

We asked one of the guides named Max how long he had worked for Pacuare and he told us that he had been in their employ for fourteen years. Max was one of the guides who knew all of our names and used them without faltering. He was confident and seemed to sense our needs. When we heard of his extended tenure, I asked if he were one of the oldest in terms of service there. He told us that there were others with more time. He added that his father had also worked for the lodge and had very enjoyed his tenure. Pecuare Lodge has existed and done these types of eco-tours for twenty-four years.

Before long the couples began to dwindle and, seeing absolutely no need to outlast all of the group, we took our leave and headed for our bungalow. The rains had subsided by now even though they had continued after the afternoon shower a time or two. But, when we opened all of our curtains for the night entrance of cool night air, we noticed a flashing of light. It was that of lightning bugs sparking here and there. The beds were clothed in both a blanket and bedspread aside from the sheets, all of which were discarded at least at the beginning of the night. During the night I managed to slip below the sheet and then the light blanket. The dampness of our surroundings had created a less than dry condition for our bed linens. It reminded me of what we might experience in the Rio Grande Valley of Texas and of southern Alabama when, as kids, we had neither air conditioning nor fans to provide dryness or comfort within our dwellings. But soon we forgot even of this slight discomfort and were sleeping.

Though John did not recall it, I began to hear the rumble of thunder and the flashes of lightning. Then, the rains began in earnest. What a treat and a natural sedative sure to please coupled with the comforting sound of the roar of rain on the overhead covering. Soon it was dripping down all four sides. I cannot tell you how long the showers lasted because they, like the artificial elixirs that so many folks with insomnia take, removed me from consciousness quickly and soundly.

We awakened and greeted the dawn with joy and gladness. John hit the shower and I passed since I had been ducked, splashed and sprinkled in the raft. What's more, I had been completely submerged in the "pure, mountain waters" coming down and emptying in the wee pond just below the water flow on our way into the lodge. When John was finished, we walked to the commons and, while waiting for breakfast, had coffee and tea. The breakfast buffet was quickly ready and my plate was filled with fresh fruit, french toast and scrambled eggs. I had orange juice and Lady Grey tea to finish out my morning's breaking of fast. Our morning repast time was at 8 and our scheduled departure was at 10.

The rains continued throughout the morning until much of the ground was soaked and some of the walkways were covered with the runoff. All of us noticed that the river's hue had changed. It had been altered with the advent of the rains from what appeared to us a greenish blue to a reddish brown. And, the places where the boulders once had been apparent were now either gone completely or just a fraction of their original size. And, the speed of the current had increased visibly. Our rafts were still securely moored and tied with long ropes to trees some twenty yards up from the river's edge.

One by one the couples meandered from their bungalows or suites to the central muster point with their packed bags. Four of our group opted to remain a bit longer, having planned activities and another night or two at the lodge. But our two new-found friends from Olympia, Washington were going to join us on our way out. The guides were scurrying with their last-minute duties and helping us stuff the water-resistant (not proof as we later found) bags full of our items that we wanted protected from the river's water as well as the pounding rains that had continued steadily from before breakfast. Little by little, all of our belongings were stowed and carried down on a hand truck to the provisions raft. We donned our lift jackets and helmets and headed, gave our thanks to the help and said our good-byes to those remaining and walked the fifty yards in the heavy rains to the river's edge. This morning we had some additional guides who would be accompanying us in kayaks. Additionally, there were two kayakers who would be following our processing yet stopping from time to time at some of our difficult spots in order to record the whole episode or a portion thereof on memory cards. But, the occupants of the other two kayaks were there for our safety. It seems that just the day before an entire raft had flipped and all of the occupants were thrown into the drink. The guides in the kayaks explained to us the exact procedure for retrieval should we suffer such a fate. This was sounding more interesting by the minute! We had no such flotilla on our in-bound segment. As we began to board our rafts, four were in the sister raft and they were the Israelis and the eco-production duo and in our raft were the couple from Washington and John and me. We had the same guides as our inbound leg and ours was Randall. One note worthy of attention here...somebody, I cannot recall from whom the question came, asked me if I thought it was safe wearing my glasses. Do you suppose this was an omen of things to come?

Randall explained to us that on the day before the waters had been exceptionally low and were flowing considerably slower but today it was a different story completely. He explained to us that we would be passing rapids that would be considered and classified as Cat. III, IV and, quite possibly even V. As we started out, we did some practices with the heave ho, etc. and I could not feel any problems in my arms or shoulders. We let the front two from Washington set the cadence and we followed suit. It was obvious to us after the first crossing of the rapids that we in the middle of the raft were in preferential positions. Though we got a complete spray of the waters nearly every time, those in the front were showered with a blast of the angry, brown liquid without fail. But, after the first one, we at least knew what to expect. Somehow or another, I had glanced back to the stern and I could hardly believe what I saw...if I was not complete mistaken, I viewed Randall making the sign of the cross! The raft leaped high into the air, reacting to the force of those rapids and, those of us who had been catapulted, tried in vain to paddle the water but ended up taking a swing into the air instead. Never mind for we quickly were plunked down onto the surface of the waters again. We were given the command "get down" several times during the course of the outbound segment at which times we hit the deck and held onto our paddle as well as the ropes running around the outside surface of the raft. We did manage each time, one new set or rapids seemingly trying to outdo the one we had just successfully passed. And yes, we high-fived our paddles with each passing. The kayaks continued to crisscross our paths and were gliding like eels around about us. Their presence was very reassuring. We noticed also the two kayaks and their occupants pointing their cameras in our directions, especially when we were in the process of passing a rapids or just completing one.

Our actual departure time from the lodge was more like 10:30 a.m. When we had traveled about one-half of our way to our final destination, we pulled into the side of the river. At this point, the river had broadened and there were brown sand patches onto which we pulled our rafts. Bear in mind that the rains continued relentlessly throughout our entire exit journey. Immediately upon reaching shore, one part of the eco-production tour ran for the side of the river, just above the flow, squatted and created a flow all of her own. She did not even have the protection of a fig leaf. But, when one is desperate, one takes matters into one's own hand. Others of us were a bit more modest and found a bush or shrub to shield our indiscretions. This was to be our lunch break even though we had been fed a substantial breakfast at the lodge. We took a steep path up the bank and found a palapa (grass covered shack, open on all sides). From the provisions raft the guides carried up the makings for what was soon to be stowed in our bellies. We had pasta, pulled chicken, bread and a wonderful salad. For dessert we had a large selection of freshly cut fruit such as watermelon, cantaloupe, papaya and pineapple together with some coconut candy with iced tea. Not surprisingly, the guides again took the challenge and acted as chief cooks and bottle washers. The small enclosure was the property of indigenous tribe members with whom the Pacuare Lodge owner and operator had made a prior agreement for its use. There are monetary rewards for the owners of the property as well as all of the food stuffs that were uneaten. At the site were two resident pups who wandered from one person to another begging for morsels of food. They quickly snapped up each offering, sometimes before they reached the ground. Just above the palapa was another smaller enclosure also open at all sides with a table suitable for eating. The roof was thatched and did not provide water-tight seals so the top of the table was somewhat moist. But, who cares? The guides cleaned up all of our mess and repacked the plates, glasses and silverware. The left-overs remained and would be collected and consumed in the afternoon when we would already be long on our way.

The guides announced that it was time to pull the pin so we climbed down the fifty steps to the river once again. But, this time the river had risen noticeably and, where we had once stepped on semi-dry sand, there was not water.

We continued on for another hour or so and finally reached our point of exit from the river. The river was flowing about twenty-five feet below the wee village where we terminated our rafting trip. Up with our paddles, life jackets, my glasses and helmets to the top and into a warehouse where we deposited our equipment and received a dry, fluffy towel. It felt wonderful to sop some of the moisture off our out bodies. Then we collected our bags (some of the contents of some of the bags were not fully dry). Mine was just fine...no leaks whatsoever. Then across the street to showers, changing rooms and another mini-buffet set up for us. Also here we noticed that the two kayak photographers had laptops and were displaying the images from our trip. There were about one-hundred fifty photos of each raft and they looked quite impressive. When I found the cost, I was disinterested in acquiring a copy. However, our friends from Washington did purchase a copy and have told us they would attempt to make a copy of their images and make it available to us. We will share their initial expense of USD40.

Then, in the midst of a downpour, we tucked our wet things into large plastic bags and stowed them and us on a tourism van headed for San Jose and our hotel. The ride back to the city was done in far less time than our transport out and it seemed to us that the roads had improved. It is highly possible that we took different routes coming and returning. We made it back to the capital and to our hotel by around five in the afternoon. The past two days were a true pleasure and tons of fun. But, it was also a pleasure to reach our hotel. We hung the wet items in our air-conditioned room and hoped that they would dry in time for us to pack up the next day for our flight to Panama.

John and I were both fatigued and had no intention of doing anything strenuous that evening. We had spied a McDonald's just one block distant from the hotel so walked over and fed our faces and returned. Bed was my only friend at that point and I had absolutely no argument regarding bedtime. I knew nothing of the night. Sleep, what a wonderful gift. Tomorrow we will be taking a taxi to the San Jose airport for our flight to David, Panama.

(I will be including images within this narrative at a later date.)

The River Pacuare, the lodge and white water - our arrival

2010-02-26T10:25:00.011-06:00

We have had a memorable time in Costa Rica, albeit way too abbreviated. We arrived in the capital city at dusk on the 23rd so really did not have much time to become acquainted with the metropolitan area. Then, on the 24th, we were up early to check out of our hotel and await the tourism van that was scheduled to meet us at our hotel at 6. We grabbed a quick breakfast at the hotel and waited for our driver who showed up around half past six. On the bus we met the driver and a guide plus one fellow from Israel and one fellow, born in Iran but of Israeli descent. We continued throughout the heart of San José and parked for a short time near a larger and more grand hotel from which four additional folks emerged. There were two young girls, both from Manhattan and a young couple who emerged and were soon situated in the van with their provisions. The young couple were working together on a documentary on eco-tourism. The girl was from Miami and the young man was from Los Angeles. We continued driving throughout the city in the early morning and soon were outside the busy portion and administrative center of this country and had entered a far less populated area and countryside. The city center lies at approximately 3,700 feet above sea level so we experienced cool but somewhat humid climate. Nevertheless, the air conditioning was turned on in the bus for our additional comfort.

We rode for approximately one and one-half hours through some of the most gorgeous country that we have experienced to date in Central America. There were various chains of volcanic mountainside wherever we looked and much rich, verdant vegetation. The roads for the most part were two-lane and filled with very slow-moving trucks behind which we often found ourselves. Speed limits that were posted were often less than 90 kilometers per hour (54 mph) and, for the most part the operators of the vehicles here that we observed kept well within the limits.

We continued on for another forty minutes and stopped the city of Cartoga which, up until 1823 was this country's administrative center and capital. In this city we also found the Basicila de Nuestra Señora de los Angeles. It was a remarkable structure, an image of which you can see to the left. We were of the impression that this was the only reason for our stop but we found out later that two passengers who should have been collected in San José were actually not ready when we stopped in the city but somehow we connected with them at this city. They were young and perhaps matched the ages of the two girls from Manhattan. We found out later that they were from Malmö, Sweden and we exchanged stories about our heritage and of the wonderful visits in their homeland. When we noticed them on the bus, they were fighting the effort to be asleep and finally both succumbed to slumber, their blonde heads bobbing to and fro and finally coming to rest on one shoulder or another as well as the back of the seats just ahead of them. In conversation later, John found that they had partied until five the morning that we began our journey.

We continued on for perhaps another fifty minutes, driving through lush, gorgeous mountainsides and valleys which were adorned with some of the most spectacular rain forest until we came to a curve in the mountainous road where a restaurant was located. It was set high above the valley below providing for some nice views over a river flowing in the valley, a reservoir and, during times of less cloud-cover titan volcanoes in the distance. We had time for bathroom stops here as well as our breakfast. We were served corn tortillas, a pasty type of cheese, the consistency of cream cheese but certainly not the flavor, a mound of gallopinto (rice and beans mixed), fresh fruit, orange juice and coffee and tea.

We boarded our bus again and continued yet for another hour on these windy roads with gorgeous scenery. We passed through several very small villages and towns and picked up three additional guides who would later we assisting us at the lodge and on the Pacuare river. These fellows were some of the best multi-taskers that I have ever observed in all of Latin America.

If travel on the main highways of Costa Rica seemed slow to us, you should have been with us to experience the plunge that we took in the tourism bus as we departed the hard-surface two-lane highway and turned onto a gravel ribbon that would lead us eventually catapulting to the riverfront. The operator of the van had his manual-shift transmission van in its lowest gear and the motor was holding us back to a respectable and easy pace as we twisted this diabolic and sinewy passageway. Despite the lowness of the gears, the brakes had to be applied often but we failed to notice the odor from the over-heated brake pads so he must have done the right thing. It took us about ten to fifteen minutes to reach the river where our three blue rafts were tied. We were all very anxious to exit our van and did so with dispatch. We were able to see the water which seemed to be passing us quite quickly as it flowed from higher elevations to its target in the Caribbean Sea. We could see large boulders and some rocks jutting out of the water and we would eventually be dodging these monsters.

There was a time of orientation - a dividing, so to speak, of the sheep and the goats. You see, some of us had never been rafting before other than in the stillest of waters. But, then again, there were "experts or would-be experts" who knew all the ropes and would be providing help to most of us novices who were in need of education and assistance. We packed all of our things in water-tight packs, went to a last-minute toilet call, were divided off into groups, and then came the time to board. But, before boarding, we were fitted with life jackets and hard helmets that were fastened securely under our chins.

There were three guides who were there to provide for our safety, give commands and steer the rafts from the stern. One of the guides was responsible for transporting all of the luggage and other supplies that would be used during our overnight at the lodge. He had oars and sat mid-point in his raft. The raft that we were not occupying had six passengers plus the guide. Each passenger had a paddle and was instructed how to use it. There was much emphasis on how to hold the paddle, how to paddle (bending the body) and how to follow commands.

The only item that I had in my pocket was my small digital camera which I managed to use once or twice before we began our float down the river. In our raft, aside from the guide, we had only John and myself doing the paddling. Our guide told us that the water was low and because we were both fairly portly, we managed to provide quite a lump downward under where we were sitting. It would be obvious then to assume that we could often be hung up on the boulders, especially if we would fail to honor commands of the guide. Think of what it might have been had there been other passengers along with us. And, hung up we became once or twice on our entry leg to the lodge. One time we were quickly dislodged by the maneuvering of the guide and because of the force of the water seeking lower altitudes. The second time we really became impaled and the guide, after rocking backwards and forwards, jumped out onto one of the offending boulders and pushed, shoved and yanked until we finally shot free. I was very pleased that he did make it into the raft before we shot over the rocks. It may have been after this dislodging where we were completely inundated with water. Our guide had shouted "down" and we minded so were none the worse for wear and still occupants of the raft. However, remember the one item that I had in my pocket? My poor camera! I took it out and tried to dry it on the portion of my t-shirt that was tightly squeezed under my life preserver and the guide steered the raft to the shore where we tucked the camera into his water-resistant first-aid kit.

After we had been in the raft for about fifty minutes, we paddled over to shore and exited for a walk up one of the creeks that flowed into our river. The river bed was strewn with rocks that were covered with a very slippery substance which made ambulating for some members of the group quite difficult at times. None of us really did the hike in record speed. nor were we in a race for first When we had walked about two hundred yards, we reached a gorgeous pool sheltered by the rain forest canopy. Feeding this pool was a rushing fall of water about two meters in height. Without exception, everybody in the group took off anything other than the slightest coverings of our bodies and dove into the drink. What a beautiful time of refreshment for us all. The day had begun with a partial cloud-cover but the sun was shining in such that shadows were cast all about. Fortunately for all of us, we had remembered sunscreen. Now we were doing a great job of removing what remained of that white smeary stuff from our bodies. But, it was well worth it.

The guides summoned us again and we were traipsing over the slippery rocks once more. Nobody that I saw took a fall. We were again on our way and when one of the rafts crossed a particularly rough place, we all waited for the other two to follow. We changed positions from time to time and when passing the other raft, we were in the habit of splashing to our heart's content the occupants thereof. All except the supply raft, that is. We knew well where the bread was buttered.

The entire area in which we were passing is a preserve and we saw no evidence of private dwellings. There were three or four other lodges, or remnants of them that we passed. None, we found later, were as well equipped as the one towards which we were heading. We were told that there were tribes of indigenous living on the far reaches of the mountains that we could see. However, we did not see any evidence of their presence down at the river level. We were told that the operator and owner of the lodge where we had booked, had made arrangements with some of the indigenous folks for use of some of their lands in exchange for foods and other items, chattel and monetary.

We had passed one of the apparently abandoned properties when our guide told us that, contrary to what we had seen on the website, this was our final destination. We were not convinced though and continued paddling on our merry way. And, before long, we arrived at the beautiful Pecuare Lodge. We had paddled on our inbound stretch perhaps two hours. It was great to have arrived and now we shed ourselves of our life-preserver, helmet and our guide gave me my poor camera. I dreaded trying to turn it on as I had ween warned about water and electronics. Thanks to the precision of Sony and especially those items constructed in Japan (which this camera was), the camera snapped to life and all was functioning.

We were given a few ground rules about electricity (it was on in the lodge proper from 5 to 10 at night) and in some of the move luxurious dwellings on the property. No shoes inside the bungalows or in the common areas. No paper or other objects in the toilets. Hours for meals and supplemental trips that might be available. We were also questioned about possible dietary restrictions. The girls from Manhattan did have allergies and the couple from LA and Miami also had some restrictions as to eating. One of the Jewish men had religious restrictions but the other one does not adhere to Biblical laws as to eating certain foods or the mixing thereof.

We were treated to a large goblet of cold watermelon juice. As we stood around enjoying this treat, we were told a bit more of the property and of its buildings. There was a common area where we stored our life savers, helmets and just a muster place for comings and goings. We were told that the lodge could accommodate perhaps up to twenty-four individuals and that people were coming and going every day. Some folks opt for longer stays and there are also many who opt for one overnight as John and I did. There was also a two-story building with large patio facing the river which was open to the elements on all sides. Electricity was available at this place for the charging of iPods, telephones (though there was no wireless signal for mobiles) and laptops. I had opted to not take my laptop as I had not expected there to be wireless. I was wrong, dead wrong. Believe it or not, there was wireless supplied by microwave towers. I asked if it were satellite and was told that it was microwave. On the top floor of the eating place was a large area for seating, a fully-stocked bar and a library. In the basement there was a wine cellar and they said that one could get just about any kind of wine you might desire. We were told that lunch would be served within thirty minutes so, at that time our guides helped us tote our bags and other equipment to our respective sleeping places.

I had not realized it but John had booked us into one of the luxury rooms which had electricity twenty-four hours a day. It was a gorgeous room with two standard beds with mattresses as thick and high as those of our niece Karen in San Diego. It was pure comfort. It too was open to the elements with curtains that could be pulled if one desired a tad of privacy at one time or another. There were nets stretched from the four-poster structures that could be used for mosquitoes but we noticed no insects whatsoever other than a few sand flies that seemed to enjoy the foot of one of the guides when we initially were introduced to the river. Our room was accessed only after walking on a stone walk about fifty yards in length form the common building and it was separate and apart from the other bungalows. It was on the upper floor of a building which was shared with another suite, that one with one queen bed. There was a lovely porch with hammocks for comfort and bird watching. There were numerous trees, plants and flowers and we were surrounded by the rain forest. The sounds of birds were abundant and, while swinging on one of the two hammocks, I spied two toucans enjoying plucking seeds and flesh of a fruit tree just twenty feet away. I did not jump up for my camera because it would have spoiled the beauty of the moment. Suffice it to say, I was surprised by joy. There were virtual trees of healthy hibiscus, calla lily, banana and a myriad of other growing beauties in the area. We saw pendulum birds and their nests on the property. The pendulum bird is larger than a robin and is related to our oriole. They make nests that hang from the branches of trees and can extend downward towards the ground in lengths up to 36 inches. The pendulum bird is a gorgeous bird with bright yellow tail feathers and they were spotted several times making darts towards their nests.

I mentioned that there were several options for activities while staying in the lodge. Among them were visiting an indigenous village, horseback riding, riding the zip-lines in and above the canopy, climbing the paths, Swedish massage, hiking to and sharing a meal with an indigenous family, etc. John and I decided to just chill and we found our elevated patio set on a level to enjoy the canopy of the flora just right down our alley. Combine that with the possibility of swinging lazily in one of the two hammocks attached to hammock hooks on the porch. That was something that we simply opted to not refuse.

As I lay there listening to the calls of the birds and seeing the toucans and pendulum birds, a looked out at the gorgeous hibiscus blossoms just two yards from my eyes. I am positive I even closed my eyes in order to check the lids for holes a time or two. I was in and out of slumber but awakened by a sound that brought back memories of childhood. As a youngster, we had tin roof on the shed on the property where we lived and during times of rains, it was almost deafening to be inside the shed. Wow, it brought back some very nostalgic memories of life after World War II when we were living in southern Alabama. Those drenching but quick rains used to come and be gone within ten to fifteen minutes. Interestingly, the rains that came continued off and on throughout the afternoon and, as you will find out in episode two, they continued on into the next day.

With this in mind, you will remember that the zip-line tour was one that several folks took that very afternoon. So, as I heard the rains pelting the roof, it was also pelting the poor participants of the zip-line tour. And, as luck might have it, I heard the zing of the wheels pass over the cable on the final line coming back into our camping area. At first I was startled about the sound and it seemed so incongruous because of its mechanical nature. Yet, I wondered what sort of beast or bird might be emanating such a noise. Poor folks, they paid to be uncomfortable in the rain. We observed from the comfort of our hammocks and under a roof whose eaves extended a good meter on all sides. Certainly more than enough to keep us dry even in a gale.

In the next segment I will tell a bit about our night at the lodge, eating the delicious gourmet foods prepared by our guides and other staff on location. Meeting other guests who had already been there and becoming more acquainted with our guides, members of our own group and the staff.

(We have arrived in Panamá. I have still neither downloaded my photos from the Pecuare River experience nor have I included them in this narrative. Please do not give up hope. I will add them after I have completed the blog for our trip out - the second day.)

We arrived San José, Costa Rica

2010-02-24T05:18:00.000-06:00

This will be short and sweet but want you folks to know that we arrived in this beautiful, clean capital city around five in the afternoon, right in the midst of rush hour.

Our flight on Copa took just over forty-eight minutes. It was long enough in duration for the flight attendants to pass through the cabin with sodas, juices and liquors on one pass. And, those who imbibed on the strong drinks were given them gratis.

Flight 115 operated on time and the aircraft used was a Boeing 737-700. Over one-half of the seats were unfilled so we were able to spread out for additional comfort. Flight announcements were mostly pre-recorded and given in English and in Spanish. The movie which was playing on the screens regarding flight safety had the English narrative with English subtitles but the Spanish narrative was given with Portuguese subtitles. Cover all bases I would suspect.

Upon leaving Managua International airport, the departure tax of USD35 was added to the price of each of our tickets so we did not have to front that amount on the day of our leaving. That was a nice surprise. And, despite our riding in the main cabin, our attendant had marked our bags as priority so we were able to retrieve them almost immediately after having landed.

The Managua airport, while not a beauty on the outside, is a gorgeous structure within. It is clean, well-maintained and one can pass easily and quickly through both the immigration and customs gates. It is a pleasure to pass through that airport. The same can be said about the airport here in Costa Rica.

When we had collected our bags, we went speedily through the formalities of entering another country and were soon outside of the secure area. We had not arranged for transfers from the airport so we hopped into a cab after paying USD24 and were in the mire of rush hour in the capital city. It took us approximately thirty-five minutes to arrive at our hotel, Parque del Lago. We checked in with the help of Freddie who made us feel like we were wanted here. A very happy lad who was more than helpful.

When we opened the door to our room, we found a solo queen bed. We had requested a room with two beds so I hurried down to the reception and made the change. It was done with a smile and this time we were up on the top floor with a gorgeous view of the surrounding volcanic mountains.

This city is set at about 3,750 feet above sea level so the temperatures and climate are more comfortable for us. Quite a contrast from Managua and Granada where the temperatures and the humidity were in the higher ranges. Also, in this city, we were told that the water from the taps is completely potable without repercussions from the intestines and stomach. Nice to be able to brush one's teeth without using bottled water as we have done in all of the other Central American countries that we have visited to date.

Our pick-up here at the hotel for our next adventure is at 6 this morning which should come within about 45 minutes so I need to abbreviate this note and try to fill in after we return to this very hotel in one day. In the interim, we will be rafting and at an Eco-lodge in the wilderness. I promise to take pictures and keep notes so you can come along with us on our fun.

Have a good day everybody.

To Managua and the airport - está perdido hombre...

2010-02-23T11:29:00.002-06:00

We departed Granada after having said good-bye to our friends. The trip went well except for a premature turn. Instead of tarrying a bit farther on our way, I cut a right turn in the direction (I thought) of Tipitapa. After having driven about two kilometers on very curvy and narrow roads, I asked John if he thought I might not ask about directions. I spied a young lad on his bicycle riding in the opposite direction and asked him: "¿Va este camino en la dirección de Tipitapa?" El dijo, "no, estas perdido hombre" No, you are lost man. Well, I was glad that I asked and I was also more happy that he told me I was lost and what I could do to correct my error. We had only gone minutes out of our way so it was not a grave mishap and it did give me an opportunity to use what little Castellano that I do have under my belt as well as the chance to listen to my corrective instructions.

Again on the correct camino, we continued a bit further until we reached the fork in the road where we turned and continued about twenty-two kilometers to Tipitapa where we again turned sharply to the left for another eight kilometers. Then a roundel or round-about with a turn to the left and we passed by the airport.

John was interested in seeking out the Best Western hotel which we found directly across from the International Airport of Managua. We had met the Gerente General at the Masaya Volcano just days before and, since we visited with him and he gave us his card, we thought it only fair to visit his establishment. We are here for the day. And, we will leave a note of thanks to Roberto Cruz Sequeira when we depart later today.

But, as John checked into the room, it was time for me to take the Toyota back to the airport. Upon check-out at the Hertz counter, we inherited for these past few days a car that was terribly pocked, scratched and dented. We were super careful to note each and every exception on its body before we agreed to leave the airport. Honestly there were so many items that were wrong with the car (including lights and mirror covers), I thought that we should have named the establishment RENT-A-DENT.

I asked the hotel folks where the nearest gasoline station was and was soon on my way for a filling of petrol. The equivalent of USD17 was funneled into the tank and I was soon off to find a turn-around on the four-lane divided highway. I found the first one and shot ahead of on-coming traffic directly into the entrance to the airport. To the check-in folks where they gave me a pass GO and provided a paper saying that we had encountered nothing further along the way other than a full tank of gas. We paid the equivalent of USD113 for the three-day rental.

As I exited the airport, taxi drivers were very much wanting my fares but I told them that these legs would take me across the street to the Las Mercedes Best Western Hotel. They said, maybe this afternoon or tomorrow. I told them our flight was this afternoon at half past three and we would be walking to the terminal, a distance of approximately 150 paces.

So, I will be in touch with you again when we arrive in Costa Rica.

Day three in Granada, Nicaragua

2010-02-23T06:56:00.002-06:00

We began the day early this morning with a trip down to the breakfast room and pool. There are several tables in the breakfast room but, when occupied fully, one can opt to sit around the pool where several additional tables are located.

It was time for a shower this morning so I did that and John went down to have some coffee and juice. I joined him after my shower and enjoyed a couple of pots of tea with my juice. We visited with a fellow who was here with his family and mother for a little rest and relaxation in Nicaragua. He and his wife had decided to quit their jobs in Canada and take a year away with their children in Costa Rica. They are about six months into their year abroad and their three girls had a break from school during this time so they took the trip up here. We found that they had planned to take the boat launch tour this morning and, since John and I were also interested in such a tour, we booked at the front desk of the hotel also.

Before we departed on the tour, John and I went next door to the Euro Cafe and had breakfast. I had an egg panini and John had a bagel with cream cheese and finished off with a piece of guava strudel. We purchased some biscotti for a little snack on our boat trip and were ready to meet our tour guide pictured to the right (the same fellow who had taken us yesterday) on the short ride to the docks of the launches on Lake Nicaragua. We were sufficient in numbers to cause our guide to take two trips. We were the family from Alberta, Canada and two couples from West Virginia.

We were in a launch propelled by a 25-horse Johnson motor. It had canvas covering all of our seats which were placed on each sides of the boat. In all, there may have been a total of sixteen seats plus the place for the operator of the Johnson.

A volcanic chain cuts right through Lake Nicaragua, and this has resulted in the creation of many beautiful islands and groups of islets.

The group of islets nearest our city are named the Granada Islets (isletas de Granada in Spanish). Most likely formed by volcanic activity of the nearby Mombacho Volcano, the 365 islets vary significantly in size and are one of Granada’s principal attractions. They are located around the long, narrow Asese peninsula. A whole community lives on the islands, and boats obviously form the most important transportation method as houses, schools, and shops are spread out over many different islets. Some islets feature hotels or restaurants, and luxurious vacation houses on a private islet are also seen more and more often. The main activity at the islets is to rent a boat and take a tour among the Granada islets. Enjoying the tropical sun while cruising around palm-covered islets and observing spectacular views and beautiful birds and playful and friendly monkeys is definitely a great holiday activity. Although electricity had not been available until not many decades ago, most of the islands we observed were connected to the grid.

So, away we go. The center of Granada lies just about fifteen blocks from the shore of Lake Nicaragua so the trip to the shore took only a matter of minutes. Then, we followed the shoreline about five or ten minutes until we reached an impasse coincident with the docks for the launches. Since we came in the first of two loads in the tourism van, we were deposited in the care of our pilot for the day (who stands ready for the assault in the picture above) and also the vendors who were busy attempting to entice some of us with necklaces and cashew nuts. The vendors here seem never to have change for larger bills so they did miss sales from some of us who would otherwise have been stuffing our snouts with these treats (even though they were unsalted).

Soon the second load of visitors arrived and we all piled into the launch. We began our trip slowly and the smells of the Johnson were very apparent. Though one would not have to smell only because there was a cloud of oil-rich blue exhaust wafting next to our nostrils.

We headed out and soon saw one of the versions of wash machine. Various versions of fact and fiction abound about the cleanliness of the waters of this body of water. The guide assured us that he eats fish taken from this lake on a regular basis and that he often swam in the murky waters. He did add that he would never drink the water.

When I questioned about the water source of Granada, he informed me that the city obtained its drinking water from deep wells.

I think it sufficed and I did not pursue where the sewage of the city was deposited. Enough is enough and I do not even want to know what was wallowing around in the waters in which several young Nicaraguans were swimming and frolicking.

We continued on and observed several different species of birds. Fortunately for you, you will not have to suffer through a myriad of fowl pictures as I do not have neither a sophisticated camera nor a matching high-priced lens. So, just take my word for it, there were several types of birds of differing hues.

We passed by several islands which, in some cases, we saw signs offering the land for sale. Our guide indicated to us that about eight years ago, there seemed to be no purchasers available to grab up this now-valuable real estate. Not the case now as very high price tags are attached to these properties. They are secluded, have electrical power and offer the gift of privacy.

We saw trees laden with mangoes and other fruits and also several trees full of gorgeous blossoms of yellows and oranges. We stopped for a moment for the operator of the launch to pick a long spear on a tree that appeared to be a skinny piece of asparagus. He twisted this and the outer shell opened to display a beautiful flower.

On we continued and came to the shore of an island inhabited by spider monkeys. They seems a bit larger than their brothers that I have seen in the San Diego Zoo. I would say that they might be about twenty-four inches if they were standing erect. Our operator came close enough for one of the monkeys that he called Lucy to leap onto the launch. From there Lucy went about discovering what morsels each of us might have and found quickly the folks who had succumbed to the cashew girls. But, Lucy had apparently had sufficient vittles because she just lay there on the bottom of the launch and finally leaped up into the lap of one of the passengers. This did not go on very long though as another launch approached and our operator provided a safe distance for Lucy to leap to the other boat where, it appeared the food or portions were more delectable or generous. Lucy found a ready and willing participant and jumped up onto the lap of a lady and laid her head on her shoulder similar to what we would observe from an infant.

Then we continued on and our operator discovered the male and female of a water lily. Around this same area there were nests similar to the oriels in the USA. Long nests hanging from the trees that resembled pendulums which extended for at least one to two meters in length. The beautiful birds that inhabited those dwellings were gorgeous large birds with yellow tails and flew somewhat like the swallows that we have observed in the USA.

We are departing this lovely part of Nicaragua on the 23rd. We will load our rental car which has been parked adjacent to our hotel in the street. Interestingly, when I went out to move the car two days ago, the outside mirror on the driver's side had been folded in towards the window. You see, the streets are very narrow and somebody was looking our for me. Rather that than have to arrange for settlement through American Express!

We have about fifty minutes of driving to Managua on the 23rd and we need to check our car into the Hertz lot at the airport by ten in the morning. Since our flight to San Jose, Costa Rica departs at half past four in the afternoon, we will stash our bags somewhere in the airport and hopefully catch a city bus into the capital.

Pictured to the right is the street view on the side lateral of the central park. One-half block ahead in the image you can see flags flying on the front of our hotel. Our rental card is the third vehicle (the first is the horse cart) in front of our hotel.

For those of you old enough to remember the reclusive Howard Hughes, you may recall that he leased the entire floor of a luxury hotel here in Nicaragua (in fact in Managua) where he spent some time. John reminded me that he kept all of his spent urine in vials here. A funny quirk and funnier still that he should have remembered that!

So, the next post will be from San Jose, I hope!!

Day two in Nicaragua - to Masaya Volcano and Market

2010-02-22T07:21:00.003-06:00

We had made arrangements yesterday for a six-hour tour which, we were told, would include a trip to Nicaragua's first national park featuring the Masaya Volcano, the craft market in the town of Masaya, a trip to the Mirador Catarina, a pass through the Pueblos Blancos and, our final stop, the village of San Juan where we viewed some fantastic pottery featuring pre-Colombian designs.

We met our guide at 9 this morning and were soon in the tourism van parked just outside our hotel door. Our guide had long blonde hair which was pulled back and tied up on the back of his head. He spoke Spanish initially but switched to very understandable English. When we were under way, I asked him if he lived in Nicaragua and he told us that he did. He did say that he had a French passport (EU). I asked him how he went about getting that and he told us that his dad was from France and his mom was from Costa Rica. He said that he had grown up in Costa Rica but felt he needed a change so came to Nicaragua to involve himself in tourism. I asked him if it were difficult to get work papers in this country and he responded that nobody ever checks about things like that.

We drove about forty minutes and arrived at Masaya National Park. He paid our entrance fee and we drove perhaps five miles to the rim of the caldera. We had three options to us for viewing this marvelous sight. We joined perhaps ten or fifteen vehicles, all parked as instructed (backed into the spaces). In 2001

In 1979, Masaya became Nicaragua's first National Park, named Masaya Volcano National Park (Parque Nacional Volcan Masaya). The National Park has an area of 54 square meters includes two volcanoes and five craters, as well as a range of elevations between 100 and 630 meters above sea level. It is the only volcano in the western hemisphere where one can drive to the rim. In the park is an underground tunnel which was formed by lava flows, one can find bats and look inside and observe the glowing lava in the dark crater mouth of the volcano.

Masaya continually emits large amounts of sulfur dioxide gas (from the active Santiago crater) and volcanologists study this (and other signs) to better understand the behavior of the volcano and also evaluate the impact of acid rain and the potential for health problems.

Although the recent activity of Masaya has largely been dominated by continuous degassing from an occasionally lava-filled pit crater, a number of discrete explosive events have occurred in the last 50 years. One such event occurred on November 22, 1999, which was recognized from satellite data. A hot spot appeared on satellite imagery, and there was a possible explosion. On April 23, 2001 the crater exploded and formed a new vent in the bottom of the crater. The explosion sent rocks with diameters up to 60 cm which traveled up to 500 m from the crater. Vehicles in the visitors area were damaged and one person was injured. On October 4, 2003 an eruption cloud was reported at Masaya. The plume rose to a height of ~4.6 km.

In addition to being warned to back the vehicle into the parking spaces, we were also warned to spend no more than twenty minutes in the area.

When our allotted time was up, we went over to a small stand and bought a couple of sodas and were soon in the van descending to the entrance and visitor center for the park.

It was only a matter of a handful of kilometers that were driven for us to arrive at the Masaya market located in the city of the same name.

Our guide assured us that, other than for the market (which was touted as the best market in all of Central America), the town itself was not set up for tourism. It was very evident to us as we walked about after visiting the market and it was unspectacular in all aspects save the central park with its gazebo. Adjacent to and sitting on the perimeter of the park was the colonial-style church in which we sat and relaxed for a few minutes.

To us, the market held very little appeal. I must add that the residents of the two towns where we have spent the most time are genuinely friendly and extremely helpful. Many of the clerks in hotels and shops do speak English but it is a very easy place for visiting and looking about. There is a good sense of security here and, especially in Granada, the area around central park and the main street passing by the cathedral are full of tourists and well lighted.

In both Masaya and in Granada, horses or ponies are used to pull carts around. These carts are used to transport people and cargo.

Because of the livestock passing through the city streets, there is also the presence of droppings and puddles of spent urine. You can only imagine the odors that are omnipresent. We have seen small burlap collection devices placed appropriately under the offending orifices of horses in both San Antonio and in New Orleans but, even though these devices are here, they fail to eliminate the plastering of the smelly stuff on the streets.

The Masaya market covers a large city block and we noticed that the shop-keepers were non-aggressive in their approach to vending. This pleased me greatly and encouraged me to spend ten minutes in the market instead of one or two. But, like the saying we have overused....been there, done that.

It does have an interesting and very different design on the exterior as you can see below. There are large wooden doors which, during the hours of opening are flung open permitting passage on all sides of the market area. Inside there is a common area with a stage which could permit room for observation of singing groups, musical combos or, for the reading of serious poetry. Who knows what goes on in this venue? The stage was vacant and there were no would-be observers.

One major difference we have noted in our visit here. In all of Bolivia, Peru and Guatemala, we often see the beautifully hued attire worn by the indigenous population. That same sort of coloration is missing completely here. Most folks are attired thanks to the paca or bale of used clothing from rag and thrift shops and left-over Salvation Army donations that provides them with clothing similar to what you and I wear as a matter of course in the USA. We see the names of familiar towns, schools and places from the USA emblazoned on the chests and breasts of boys and girls, men and women here. One would be hard pressed to detect any differences from the attire of the young folks here when compared and contrasted with their counterparts in the USA or in Canada. That goes for the mature adults as well.

In terms of overall and general well-being, I have seen no skinny individual here and I have observed few beggars, if any. They appear well-dressed and well-fed and seem to be a happy people. Even local residents don shorts and t-shirts and I see very few feet dressed with shoes. More often than not, sandals and flip-flops are used.

Leaving the market at Masaya, we drove perhaps five or six miles gaining elevation as we went to the lip of an extinct volcano. We passed through some small villages called Pueblos Blancos or white villages. In these villages many of the inhabitants had what we would say plant nurseries and were busy tending and selling their beauties. We are in the midst of the dry season here so, this beauty has to be maintained by humans for the most part as for moisture and from Nature regarding the sunlight of which we have experienced a bountiful amount.

We soon arrived at Lake Apoyo which is a collapsed volcano and contains water that is said to be more pure than the two or three other lakes in the area. Our guide indicated that tours to the shores of the lake were available for those who would rather swim in this body of water than in the one on whose shores our town of Granada lay. We opted for a view only and will save the pleasure of a plunge for perhaps Costa Rica which will come within a day or two. This lake reminded us vaguely of Crater Lake National Park in the USA. It is, however, far smaller in size and lies at a much lower altitude than does Crater Lake. Apoyo, if I got my facts straight and my ears were operating correctly, is approximately one-hundred meters in depth at its deepest point and three hundred meters can be measured from shore to shore at its widest. The air was fresh and cool up at this elevation and treated us to a few moments of great comfort.

From this location, we drove in the tourism van without air conditioning. Well, I could say that it had the same type of air conditioning as we had as children - open windows with the wind blowing fiercely from all four corners. Better that than nothing. Our guide told us that our last stop of the day would be in a wee village where, within the space of four hundred meters, we would encounter various shops and private homes where the artists in residence threw clay which resulted in some fine pieces of pottery.

We alighted on the street made of paved blocks and walked the five or six blocks. We were alone save for perhaps another couple who was also poking around the wares. We purchased a few items and talked with the owners and, in one case the artist who had both designed and produced the works of art.

At the end of the village sat the ubiquitous Catholic church. We arrived at the village of San Juan at around one o'clock and found the doors of the church shut tightly. There was no evidence that the padre had been there or had any intentions of being there.

It was a clean village and neatness was in evidence in all of the areas in which we were walking and doing our "window" shopping.

We came finally to a small private dwelling which had a few items in the sales area of the home. When John entered that area, the lady asked him into a smaller gated area where larger pieces were on display.

We began to notice items that represented animals that were incorporated into the fashioning of the pottery and, when we questioned their significance, were told that these pieces were modeled on pieces that had been excavated in this country. Of course natural dyes were employed in the fabrication of the originals and these, for the most part were made using non-natural hues. There were exceptions, however, and when we asked about vast differences in prices, we were told by the artist of one of the very nice pieces that these were made following what might have been the method employed on the originals. He indicated that the sap or milk of the trees were used in some cases for an ingredient in the dyes. The pieces in the first room that John visited were marked in the local currency but the pieces in the second room were marked in dollars. With the conversion rate of twenty to one, marking the more dear pieces in Córdobas would have produced quite a bit number as one of the larger pieces was on sale for USD200. The artist assured us though that he would grant a generous discount. The two pieces to the left were about twenty inches in height.

Many of the pottery shops still use the older method of producing pottery instead of the ovens or kilns. The pottery is placed in fire and until it is completed. Speaking of fires, very much like Guatemala, El Salvador and Honduras, Nicaragua is not without the odor of fires. One cannot go far or spend much time without the telltale aroma of fires. Whether it is the residue or chaff from the fields, garbage burning or just smoke from the fires used to heat homes in cooler climates. Smoke is apparent in every place that we have visited in Central America and there seem to be absolutely no bans anywhere, whether country side or metropolitan area against the burning and production of smoke.

From San Juan we were ready to make the thirty minute ride back to our temporary home in Granada. Our driver took us back to within one-half block of our hotel and we set out for a bit of nourishment.

John had noticed an ad on one of the maps of the city which touted the best hamburgers in town. Its name was Zoom Bar. We had put off eating during our tour because the food simply did not look too appetizing at the market in Masaya and many of the shops and tiendas were closed on Sunday to permit time with families. So we both had a bit of an appetite.

We entered the restaurant and saw a bunch of ex-pats from the USA and also some Canadians. There were no locals there at all. The wait person was a fellow from New Orleans and he was chatting with the guy who appeared to be in charge...also from a country other than Nicaragua. We were dismayed because the folks who were there were drinking only and, of course, had to accompany that with cigarettes. It seemed that they waited until our food was placed before us. Ugh!!

On our way back to the hotel, John asked me if we should check out the super market. We walked about five blocks and found the market. It was far superior to anything of like kind in Antigua and very well stocked and orderly. I took no other image than the one you see at the right. It is of a papaya and the size far exceeds that which we see in the markets of Guatemala. In fact, the ones here are more like the ones we find in Venezuela and in Colombia.

After returning to the hotel, we took naps and rested a bit before we got up once again. This time we went out to see what was happening in the central park. We noticed that there were far fewer people out and that the stands which were before set up were now gone.

The church was open and I could see communicants going up for the sacraments. The church is open to the elements with windows and doors all open. I am certain that the fans were a spinning indoors too.

We continued on down for a few blocks and found a great little dessert place. We entered, ordered our sweets and drinks and enjoyed our last mini repast of the day. I had a piece of chocolate pie and John enjoyed a brownie. He reported that his choice was very rich but I did see that he was able to consume the entire thing. I had tea and he enjoyed coffee, most likely from beans of Nicaragua.

Then back to the hotel where we viewed some of the Olympics in Vancouver and John managed to see some of his favored show, the Desperate Housewives. Can you imagine? Such is life in the fast lane.

End of day two. Tomorrow we have not definite plans but may visit some small islands in Lake Nicaragua which were formed by volcanic activity centuries ago.

VI annual meeting of International Poets

2010-02-21T08:52:00.001-06:00

This weekend Granada is celebrating the annual meeting of international poets. And, last evening John and I stood for some time watching the celebrations and speeches in the central park here in Granada. There were people swarming everywhere in the park area and the event was being broadcast by an electrical system that ensured that every ear that was not already deaf would work on creating poor hearing in the future. It was loud and crisp even for these partially deaf ears. Before long, we decided that we had had enough and walked the block and one-half to our hotel where we retired for the night. Yes, we had our air conditioning on (at 18 degrees C). As near as I can figure, it was cool to cold and thick comforters were atop both of our beds.

We awakened this morning to a beautiful day. Since it was still early and our breakfast room was not going to open until 7, we decided to see the aftermath of the celebrations of the night before. The heat of the day had not yet penetrated the atmosphere but the humidity was perhaps as apparent as it had been since our arrival. Both my glasses and the lens of my camera suffered from the change of a dry and cool environment to this steam bath.

We meandered about the parque central and looked at some of the seller booths that were already in process of being set up for the day.

The cathedral which is encased in a high black retaining fence had none of its gates open to the public. Nor were any of the doors open inside the fenced area. And, the bells that were tolling the hours were still silent. I suspect that the weather here slows everybody and everything down. Good evidence of that was observed in the central park where both dog and man were in heavy slumber.

The only activity that we noticed this morning was from a couple of stands where coffee was being brewed and served as well as a few that were vending refrescos.

There were several men with long brooms sweeping up the trash that had overflowed the barrels. They were also busy in the common areas where the poets were celebrating last evening.

I suspect that by 9 things will be back to normal. I fully expect that the padre will also be vested in the robes in order to celebrate mass with the participants. At least this is my thinking.

In the meantime, the sleepers will continue their rest time. And, I mentioned dogs previously. I have never seen animals that so completely fall into the earth when sleeping. It could be the fact of poor nourishment but, then again, I think that they simply relax so fully that there is no space between the earth and their bodies.

The stands that were set up in the park had t-shirts, hand-crafted pottery, paintings, leather belts and other artisan objects.

There were also stands where one can purchase food or refreshments and we even saw some antique and new furniture available for sale. We noticed a good deal of caning on the backs and seats of chairs.

Do you suppose this fellow will still be sleeping when we return from our 6-hour tour of the area?

We walked further down towards Lake Nicaragua and found some nice but unusual flowers blooming. Those of you who tend the flowers and not the saints in the church might recognize the orange blossom to the right.

There are trees in the central park and elsewhere that have pods that resemble fruits. I do not recognize them and would be guessing at what they might be called.

On this same street leading to the lake we noticed a good number of hostels that were advertising rooms with or without air conditioning and with or without fans for prices anywhere from twenty-eight to thirty-eight dollars.

There are also a good number of restaurants advertising fares from different parts of the world.

As we headed back to our hotel, I noticed one fellow propped up against the Rotary statue dedicated to mothers. If he did not find his way home last night, he at least did find a matronly statue on which to lay his weary and perhaps hurting head. I wonder if she will have the balm to soothe when he finally awakens and sees the light of day.

More narrative and pictures when we return later today.

Have a joyful Sunday.

To Granada, Nicaragua

2010-02-20T20:03:00.004-06:00

We arrived in Managua by air this morning. No traffic and experienced a beautiful, spanking clean terminal. The road from Managua was a fairly good paved highway with two lanes until we entered into the city of Granada. At most the distance in miles was fifty and the journey took us through a few semi-congested villages and hamlets. We were held up slightly by motos traveling around 30 miles per hour, by larger trucks and by buses taking on new fares and discharging folks who were ready to exit. The speed limits were anywhere from 15 miles per hour up to a dizzy speed of 48 miles per hour.

I neglected to tell you that the Hertz rental had scratches all over its poor body. There were carpets missing from the inside and some lights were no longer in their proper placement. Oh well, all the exceptions were marked and there were so many in so many different places on the vehicle, there would be no way of knowing if there were any new bumps and scratches.

I related to you my poor orientation and bad turn in the small town of Granada. Not to worry because with my questioning and great responses from friendly passersby, we found our way, bumping across some speed reducers in front of the Cathedral.

We arrived with dispatch at Hotel Colonial and, after finding that our room was not quite ready for habitation, stashed our bags and set out to the nearest ATM where we exchanged some US dollars for Códobas at 20 to 1. Then we decided to walk through the crowded street market which extended for nearly ten blocks. We managed to maneuver through two and one-half blocks before we turned back and opted for a different route which included the Cathedral on the main square.

The hotel has no parking whatsoever so visitors must find parking on the streets. The street just in front of our hotel is a one-way and there happened to be a space just a few yards north of the hotel. We were assured that the car would be safe but, one never knows for sure. I purchased the obligatory insurance required in Nicaragua and put the car on my American Express Gold Senior card which provides for generous insurance in the event of loss or damage. So, I will have faith in the words of the front desk people. After, all they have entirely no vested interest in my well-being. Why should they care?

Upon entering the beautiful and elegant in its understatement church, we saw two young men standing on a scaffold which was swaying to and fro all the while being steadied by three guy ropes which were tied to the sacrament table legs. They were applying light pastels which were gorgeous. Interestingly, one of the lads was clad in nothing more than his jeans and flip flops. Yet, when he descended the ladders of the scaffold, he immediately clothed himself in a wife-beater undershirt. A bit of decorum in the House of the Lord, please.

It was both hot (not warm) and very humid here so, as I told you, we entered the sanctuary and found a pew two-thirds of the way to the back of the church. But, not before John spied a fan which was hid behind one of the supporting pillars. It was not plugged in but the cord was hanging in a very tempting way just next to an outlet. John made the connection and we enjoyed a very nice and steady breeze headed directly in our positions. Nice. This church was almost completely devoid of the usual statuary we find in most churches of Rome in Latin America. It was refreshing to observe the understatement inside of this Cathedral.

We spent the allotted amount of time for the chamber maid to complete her rounds and returned to our hotel. When we passed by the front desk, we were told that our room was ready to occupy. When we entered the room, we found all of our bags already waiting for us.

There are two gorgeous swimming pools in the patios of our hotel and beautiful flora all about. The bougainvillea are outstandingly gorgeous and thick. There are coconut palms as well as banana bushes surrounding the public areas. Fresh flowers are in our lobby. No plastic here, thank-you!

Other guests that we have observed in our hotel are English-speaking folks, some with school-age children. Is this some type of break for the sweet little darlings? Who would ever know?

The town proper has more than its share of hippies. Do we still use that term? Surely there is a new or novel word that would describe those fine people far more appropriately. I have been out of the stream for so long that I get lost often in the last generation and its terminology. Sorry folks, but I honestly do not know what you call the youngsters who cease bathing, shaving and walk around as though they are afraid of water for cleansing. They do appear happy though and that is a very important asset.

During John's nap time, I walked about two miles down to the large lake on whose shores Granada finds itself. Just south of the Cathedral are about five blocks of shops, restaurants, hostels and private residences, all open to the street. One can easily see into each of these establishments, whether they be a business or a home. This is a vast difference from Antigua, Guatemala where high walls hide life and activity from everyone, without exception.

We have seen tons of caned chairs here. And, as I mentioned, most of the homes and businesses are open to the elements and visitors and those seeking services and goods enter without the benefit of fans or of air conditioning.

But, walking down this very street, I found it difficult to determine whether or not any or all of these dwellings and businesses were in fact open to everybody or if the doors were opened just to permit the winds to sail through and engender evaporation of perspiration, nature's wonderful gift.

As I continued down the street towards the waterfront, I passed another church of interesting design. It is called the Guadalupe church and, as far as I could see, was not available for perusal or casing. I hope to go out tomorrow morning and find both churches open to the public.

The city is full of cars, trucks, horse-drawn carriages, pick-up trucks with loudspeakers blaring messages in an attempts to garner interested listeners.

The central park was full of wares displayed by artisans. Also in the park were small children reading prose and poetry. All of this was drowned out by two mobile phone companies who were vying with each other for customers. Everybody in the common area was belted with no fewer than half a dozen loud speakers giving a booming cadence that cannot be missed for a kilometer.

This evening we went out to central park and noticed that there was a throng listening to the International gathering of poets in Granada. I do not give good estimates but it seemed as though if all of those folks were confined to a gymnasium, there might have been five or six hundred souls sitting on white plastic chairs or standing behind them.

There are notices that a ten percent reduction is available to any poet in the city. Of course I do not hold a card so that would count me out.

Tomorrow I plan to visit one or both churches near the central part of the city and, at nine in the morning after we have broken bread in the hotel, we are going on a six-hour sojourn with a guide. I hope to have some more images to share with you after our trip tomorrow.

Until then, have a joyful night! Good-night from Granada, Nicaragua Centroamérica!

On the road or in the air again

2010-02-20T11:25:00.000-06:00

Last night we were the guests of Paul and Ruth at a neat production of show tunes of the USA which was given by the Christian Academy of Guatemala. After the production, they dropped us at the Casa Blanca, a B&B within minutes of La Aurora, the airport for Guatemala City. Since the B&B had no clocks in the rooms, the desk clerk promised us that she would make sure that we were awakened by four this morning and that a taxi would be called at half past four so that we would arrive at the airport in adequate time for our check-in.

We checked into our rooms and were almost immediately asleep. We had the windows open and enjoyed the wonderful night air circulating across our beds. There was no four o'clock wake-up but John had stirred before four and we were more than ready to meet the day.

We waddled down to the reception area and the clerk asked us what we wanted for breakfast. We settled for coffee and tea. Soon she motioned for us to meet our taxi at the door and it was only a two-minute drive to our drop off at the airport.

We checked into COPA where we dropped our luggage and were given our boarding passes. Then downstairs where we paid our $2.40 departure taxes and sped through security. Now I am sitting at a restaurant having pancakes and awaiting the announcement of our flight to Managua, Nicaragua.

Since it is getting near time to report to our gate, I will cease this narrative and add more to it when we reach our destination in Granada, Nicaragua.

We arrived Managua in a short fifty minutes and were soon instructed to fasten our seat belts, put up our tray tables and the backs of our seats. The airplane was an Embryair constructed in Brazil. In the front section there were two seats side by side on the right as one is seated facing the cockpit and one seat on the left. Back in the steerage there were two seats on each side. The aircraft was heading for Panama with an intermediate stop in Managua.

We departed Guatemala City where a t-shirt and a long-sleeved shirt over it felt pretty good. What a contrast when we departed the confines of the Managua airport. Here there were banana and palm trees blowing in the wind and it did not take long before we had pools of sweat on our shirts and bodies.

Customs were a snap and, with the paymend of USD5 to the keepers of the immigration office, we were headed for the customs where we were waved through after we yielded a custom form. We went to Alamo car rental only to find that they had no cars for us. The rental clerk walked about three booths down to Hertz where he negoatiated a rental of one of their cars. This was just fine with me as I do more business with this company than any other one. We found a clerk who opted to use Spanish when she found that I was just fine in that idiom and were soon loaded into a vehicle. We drove just about two blocks where we checked the car carefully for cracks and imperfections. When all these things were noted, we asked for directions to Granada. That having been received, we were on our way. We drove on a two-lane road the majority of fifty minutes and arrived in the city of Granada. The Hertz clerk discouraged us from renting a GPS unit so we were on our own. John did not have the address for the hotel other than that is was located on the Parque Central.

I drove towards the center of the city and took a premature turn to the right on a one-way street. On this street were bikes, pedestrians, taxis, motos and just about any other form of life that one can imagine. It was filled with shops and tiendas where folks were bargaining for goods and services. We continued on for about ten blocks when finally I opened the window and asked directions for the central park. I friendly chap told me it was behind me and that I could take a left at the next intersection and loop back. Alas, there were nothing save pedestrian paths through the markets so we took a right and headed back in the direction we had come. We found the park and again asked directions. We were very close, in fact....one block so I parked and quickly a fine man offered to watch our car. We told him it was unnecessary and went into the hotel to check in. We did that and were told that our room would be ready in one hour. They took our baggage and we headed out to the street where we had been driving. Only three blocks convinced us that we had to change our plans. It was hot, humid and we were mingling with folks with different ideas than ours. You see, we were sight-seers and they were on a mission to purchase and bargain.

We found a bank and took some money out for our use in purchasing incidentals. The exchange rate is twenty Cordobas to one USD so, I suspect you could say that we were rich in numbers only. Our hotel is the Hotel Colonial which sits on one side of the central park. A great location but John and I have decided that we will be doing our walk about in the early morning in an attempt to share with far fewer folks.

The overall impression since we have arrived here is that the residents of at least this city in Nicaragua are far less off than those we had left in Guatemala, especially in La Antigua. I have not been able to find wireless here at the hotel but have been told it is available. Until I do, I will not be posting picture but I am taking them and will be adding them.

John is napping in the room while I am down in the lobby area using one of two PCs. More later!

I'll show you ours if you show me yours

2010-02-17T13:52:00.009-06:00

A misleading caption, indeed. What I am referring to is the McDonald's here in Antigua. So, my aim is to take you with John and me as we meander the streets and I will give you a visual shot from time to time.

Starting out in one of the patios of our compound, I shot this looking up at the sky whilst catching a sprig of poinsettia for your enjoyment. It is in the oldest portion of the compound where new walls were blended with the ancient, ruined walls of a monastery that was cruelly laid waste during a horrific earthquake centuries ago. The monastery was in full swing already for several generations before the founding of the original colonies of the United States of America. Our landlords acquired the property prior to the time when the government of Guatemala began to prohibit the vesting of antiquities in the names of individuals. The walls in this particular area are approximately thirty-nine inches in width and provide for a wonderful buffer from the cool temperatures of the late night and early mornings here in Antigua. They also deter the warm rays of the sun which seems to shine more brightly here in the tropics.

Leaving the confines and serenity of the compound, we exit the rear door and cross a wee alley into the rear entrance to the Casa Santo Domingo proper. From this perspective I pointed my camera towards the Volcano Acatenango which is clearly visible for you through the branches of these trees. This is one of three volcanoes visible most days when the clouds do not obscure their masses from the heart of Antigua. Acatenango is situated adjacent to Volcano Fuego which is still active and spouts out fire, ash and lava daily. When the winds provide for the movement towards the city, a fine gray grime can be found on any surface in its path. It is a very abrasive matter and, if one were foolish enough to turn the windshield wipers on without the benefit of a liquid, there would be some very fine scratches etched forever in the windscreen. So, it is a word to the wise. Acatenango is a stratovolcano very close to Antigua. The volcano has two peaks which you can see, Pico Mayor and Yepocapa. Its summit elevation is 3976 meters and its GPS coordinates are 14.50 N, 90.87 W.

During the 20th century, phreatic explosions ejected bombs which fell near the summit craters and ash fell up to 25 km away. The last notable eruption occurred in 1972.

Diverting your eyes downward now and just under the trees in the above image are several perches for the dozen or so macaws which proudly reside and squawk throughout the daylight hours. At night they are removed from these perches and taken to an undisclosed location to preen and prepare for their night's rest and respite. I wonder if they are hidden securely under the protective shroud supplied by the hotel. I suspect your guess is as good as mine because I neither see them nor do I hear them bellow out their sounds of welcome or warning during the nighttime hours.

An outdoor restaurant can be found on the extensive network of patios, porticoes and passageways of Casa Santo Domingo. At least two large fountains are flowing and providing a very restful "white noise" for those taking refreshments and light snacks. The inside restaurant is semi-open to the elements as well. Small, portable chimneys in which fires have been started tend to warm early morning diners as waiters scurry about tending to their needs.

As we exit the main entrance to the hotel, we turn right on the one-way, main street one uses when entering the town of Antigua. This street offers priority for motorists and they are not required to stop for either vehicles from perpendicular cross-streets or for any pedestrians, regardless of ability or inability. Most properties that we will be passing are enclosed with walls that extend towards the heavens and create a safe and solid barrier for would-be eager eyes or interlopers. On the rare occasion, one can catch doors to the properties open or slightly ajar and only then can one appreciate the absolute beauty behind the walls. Most vehicles owned by residents are stored securely behind these walls during the dark hours of the day.

One can only guess at the activities that transpire behind these monster walls. One point worthy of notice is the wearing away of the paint and plaster adjacent to the sidewalk passageways. These are chiseled and eroded by the constant pedestrian traffic passing by the property. As you can easily see, stout North Americans would rub either the wall or the passerby meeting him. There is no adherence to the northern European concept of not touching another person in this culture. One is fortunate indeed to not have a shoulder carved off by the metal grill-work covering windows, a smattering of paint or plaster from the wall, or, at best a black and blue reminder of somebody who had poor depth perception and came hammering into your poorly toned body. Ugh!

We ambled down on this one-way passage way into our adopted town for about 900 paces until we arrived at the Spanish Embassy. Yes, there is an embassy here in Antigua. Normally, embassies are located in the administrative capital of a country but this is an exception. And, within the past four years, John was present when the king and queen of Spain came for a visit here.

I have mentioned before that residents and visitors here are careful to select the side of the street where the sunshine does not shine directly on the sidewalk. And, those who are using the sidewalks walk more rapidly than either John or me. In most Latin American cities, we normally ambulate far more speedily than the residents. Here it is an exception. Perhaps it is that I am really getting old but it tends to encourage me to hie it a bit.

At the corner of the embassy, we took a turn left for one block and walked to the next street where we turned right. After we had walked a total of 1,140 paces, we arrived at the entrance to Antigua's McDonald's restaurant and cafe.

Now I know that many (perhaps most) of you would snarl and be very disapproving of our choice but, as I captioned this post..."I'll show you ours if you show us yours"....you will have to admit that this is a worthy stop. If for no other reason than to view the beautiful scenery behind Ronald McDonald who you can see sitting by the fountain. And, Volcano Agua can easily be spied in the far background. To the left in this image you can also view what remains of another of the dozens of churches devastated by the earthquakes which took their terrible tolls on this area centuries ago. Nowadays there are temblores or tremors that are felt from time to time here and we can almost always see the belching Volcano Fuergo or Fire) from the city center. I suspect it is like the false sense that Californians have about the possibility of a devastating earthquake there. Here, despite the fact that history has proven that they are a fact with which to be reckoned, there seems to be no concern. So, tell me, would you not have joined us for our treats this morning at McDonald's? The cost per person was Q15 or USD1.80 for coffee or tea and an apple pie.

From there we waddled approximately 150 paces to the Bodegona, our version of what you might say is a super market. John needed some kitchen and bathroom supplies and we found those without problems. On our way out, I checked about recharging our pay-as-you-go mobile phones and we bought a dozen long-stem roses (whose buds had not blown, thank-you) for Q25 or USD3.00. They are here for our visual as well as our olfactory enjoyment.

So, we have taken you to the Bodegona and I have given you good directions so now all you will have to do is retrace your steps and knock on the door to the compound and we will be awaiting your return. John baked a large batch of Swedish rye bread yesterday and it will be waiting for you. There is some salted butter from New Zealand together with Skippy extra-crunchy peanut butter and both apricot and blackberry jam. We will brew some coffee for you or give you an option of some tea if you prefer. After 2,580 paces, one should have worked up quite an appetite. Speaking of paces, I am a counter. I count steps going both up and down. One of these times, I am going to find a discrepancy, I am certain...more down than up or something like that. I cannot tell you why I count, I just do. And, at times I count the same set of stairs, hoping that the number may have changed. An odd quirk, wouldn't you agree?

We are making arrangements for our upcoming trip on Saturday to Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama. But, first we have been invited to join our landlords at a musical special in Guate on Friday night.

To Monumento Natural Sumec Champey and our return to La Antigua

2010-02-08T19:51:00.006-06:00

Just outside of Cobán, after asking a number of folks, we located the Hotel Don Francisco. Paul had been questioning residents concerning a Hotel San Francisco. Little chance in locating it when the moniker was incorrect. But, we found it and within we enjoyed gorgeous surroundings, dining on the outside patio, friendly service and very delicious food. Paul and Ruth while on another pass through this area had visited this place and had tarried the night there.

Having finished our meal, we climbed into the trusty SUV and snapped our safety belts into place and took off for yet another adventure. We fired up the trusty GPS and, crippled as though it is, was able to track our progress on our continued sojourn. We traveled mostly now on two-lane roads still marked with the ubiquitous kilometer signs to give us assurance that we were piling up the distance, irrespective of the fact that we may be behind a truck, traveling the equivalent of fifteen miles an hour and loaded high with goods, two cows and a passel of young men lying atop. Other times, we may have been behind a truck with iron railings jutting upward from all four corners and curved in an arc towards the center where another supporting rod ran the length of the truck bed. Inside and standing erect were perhaps eighteen to twenty-four men catching rides of undetermined length, destination or duration.

We had easily motored along the hard-surface roads when, all of a sudden, the GPS unit showed us an abrupt turn to the right. Paul slowed considerably and made the turn onto one of the roughest surfaces that I can ever recall riding on. But, ride we did and pilot Paul did manage. His onward speed was cut markedly though to ensure that neither the vehicle nor we did shake to bits. On the gravel path we encountered a great number of ambulatory humans who, almost without exception, looked about and focused on us as we passed their way. I am certain they would have gladly accepted a ride with us. The ladies in this area wear very colorful attire and, instead of a wrap-around skirt, theirs is pleated which I would assume takes a great deal more material.

On the dirt road at the steepest places we noticed that two tracks of concrete had been laid which I suspect aids in the traction during times of heavy rainfall. However, these tracks were short-lived and not numerous. Along the sides of the road, we spotted coffee and cocoa trees which were laden with blossoms, coffee cherries and the cocoa fruit. I stepped out a time or two to photograph and to smell the wonderful aroma of coffee blossoms. It reminded me slightly of the intoxicating and perhaps enchanting odor of citrus. We also spotted cardamom and perhaps allspice drying in the sunshine.

It seemed that we were in travel status for at least an hour on this gravel portion of our route. Our forward movement was continuously slow with the exception of the times when we met on-coming traffic which necessitated stops in almost all occasions. There was not room to pass cars most often so one had to back up or find a wider spot in the road where this could be done. A look to the horizon was often rewarded with a mind-boggling experience. The scenery is some of the most outstanding that I have viewed in all of Guatemala. The Río Cahabón flows through this area so some outfitters have availed themselves of an opportunity to generate income. Trucks that shuttle folks from where our final destination was to be this evening to an entry point for river rafting on the river passed us from time to time.

While it was still light we pulled into the wee enclave where we were to stay for the night. It consisted of several small cottages, some with running water and toilets. They were set high above the banks of a beautiful river mentioned above. Central to the enclave was a meeting point, open to the elements, where meals could be ordered, games played on tables and visitation with other guests carried out. Sodas (warm) could be ordered as could be other drinks. Electricity was provided by a generator that was alive and whirling from about 6 in the evening to half past nine at night. Since breakfast was provided in the early mornings, I suspect that there was juice then as well but I did not try the electricity in our bungalow. Just outside of our little place which we shared with Paul and Ruth was hung a very inviting hammock. We shared the place with folks from Israel, France and Canada, among others.

Before the sun set, Ruth and John took the path down to the river just below our cabin. Across the river were a half-dozen local boys swimming and enjoying the water. Since I am not in the habit of carrying around a thermometer, I cannot tell you for sure what was the temperature but I would guess it was around 80 or 85 degrees F with at least that much humidity. Bear in mind that there were no fans nor the capability to move them if there had been in the cabins. On the beds were very hard and lumpy pillows (thankful for our own), a sheet and a light blanket. Neither John nor I could imagine why one could even think of a blanket, especially at nightfall with the temperature elevated. There were screens on the windows but no glass on them.

We played our quota of games before we heard the call of bedtime. El Portal had a good portion of fruit trees on its campus as well as other herbs and spices growing about. There were many flowers on the property and, all in all, it was a delight to enjoy our dwelling and common areas. Everybody present was friendly and it was very easy to exchange stories about where we had been and where we might be going next.

In order to arrive at our destination, we had to cross a span of the river where a suspension bridge had been constructed. On its metal frame were thick planks installed the length of the chasm. Over the planks were laid another set of wooden planks over which trucks, pedestrians, cars and motos would pass. The resulting clatter and rattle reminded me of sounds as a child when, just down the street in our small village such a bridge with wooden planks rattled out the reports of anything of size crossing over them. It was a nostalgic time that resurrected on each crossing until sleep drowned everything out.

But, more about the Natural Monument. Situated within a high-sided limestone canyon covered by verdant tropical forest we found the several, warm and shallow travertine pools. As we approached the area, I stopped for a moment to record the gorgeous view in my mind and on my digital camera's memory card. That having been done, Paul suggested that I look farther afield. I did and spied a half-dozen young fellows enjoying the beauty of the moment as naked as they had come from their mothers' wombs. Our presence did not deter them from their activities. We walked a bit further along and met a guide who explained some things about this unusual phenomena known as Semuc Champey. He told us that the springs that fed the area had gradually deposited the soluble travertine which, over time covered the river with a natural bridge. It was over this bridge that he led us, rope in hand, to visit, view and be amazed at Champey's most impressive feature. It is called sumidero in Spanish which translates to shallow hole in our idiom. He led us to the upper end of the bridge where the river's thunderous whitewater plunges underground, flowing through a shoot over 320 meters in length and taking a drop of thirty meters by so doing. I had vowed to not get my leather sandals wet and had a pair of Crock knock-offs awaiting at the shore but when the guide said come, I came and did not change my foot ware.

When we finished our tour of the rushing waters, we waded back to enjoy some frolicking in the pools. It was both refreshing and cleansing for me as you will recall that I refused to use the widow-maker and the water in the showers here came without the benefit of warmth. So, the pools were great. There were ledges where, if one seated himself, he could be belted with the force and massage of the waters overflowing from the upper pools to the one below. That felt good and one could easily imagine the fingers of an experienced masseuse finding those hidden areas of discomfort.

Our check-out time was at 10 and we had entered the monument area at around half past eight so we soon decided to take our leave. The walk back to the entry gate took us about ten minutes and soon we were back at El Portal which was just outside of the gate and down the road a bit. Into our rooms for a change of dry clothing and a last minute inventory of the rooms. We packed up the car, took a last look at the cacao trees and smiled at the two or three children who each had a cacao pod in their hands ready to vend.

Then onto the diabolical byway after having crossed the rickety and resounding bridge. We had traveled only about five kilometers when we met a large truck coming down a large incline. Since we were at an opening, Paul opted to stop and then to back up for the on-coming vehicle. When the vehicle passed, Paul put the SUV into gear but the two-wheel drive vehicle did nothing but spin in place. Two of us jumped out and discovered that had he backed even three inches farther, we would have been hanging over the edge of a wash that was deeper than the vehicle itself. Paul signaled the driver of the truck and told him that he had ceded for him and that he needed help to get out of his predicament. The truck driver got out of his cab and his helper and he assessed the situation. In the back of the truck he pulled out a cord which he figured might work in extracting the SUV from its position. Several passersby gathered by now and not one in the crowd figured that it would be sufficient as its girth was no more than that of a pencil. Fortunately for us, the incident had occurred in front of a restaurant. An employee quickly found a far larger rope that was quadrupled and attached to the front chassis of Paul's vehicle and to a hook on the front of the truck. It took just a fraction of a minute to nudge the stubborn SUV onto the roadway again. So, as the crowd scattered, we climbed into the vehicle again and headed for Antigua.

By half past seven, we were safely back at the Philippi compound. A wonderful sojourn filled with many new adventures. Thank-you Paul and Ruth. You are delightful and we are grateful.

What a wonderful experience that we have had. But, as they say in Swedish "Borta är bra men hemma bäst." Away is good but home is best. And, thankfully, the Philippi compound coupled with their generous hospitality and caring have provided for us an awesome and stellar home away from home.

To Biotopo del Quetzal, Cobán, Vivero Verapaz orchid nursery and Semuc Champey

2010-02-08T14:09:00.003-06:00

Before I completely fade or erase the memories of our second day on the road, I must begin to scribe some of my thoughts. That having been stated, I must tell you that the climate where we are staying in Antigua and that which we would soon be experiencing are two different animals. The climate of Antigua has been likened to perpetual spring. So, beginning our trek at a far higher altitude than that of our destination, it was very cool and comfortable. Very soon after we departed the capital city, we began to descend to far lower climes which were dry and dusty. And, finally, we ascended once again to higher elevations but we were treated to a mixture of high humidity and temperatures.

A note here might be very helpful. In Antigua where we reside, there are fireplaces for heat in the dwellings. Although neither John nor I will ever employ them for heat, they are there as the sole method of raising the temperatures inside to chase away discomfort. On the flip side, if one should ever feel uncomfortable due to the heat in Antigua, there are fans. I have never used them but they are there to use. Going from this beautiful and mostly even temperature and weather to far warmer and humid climate was a shock much like when we lived in Phoenix and packed up to travel to Minnesota in the winter.....well, not quite!

Back to the end of day one of our trip...

We played a healthy number of card games after our supper which Ruth served to us out of her cold storage box. We sat adjacent to the small fireplace which belched out a good portion of smoke and a little heat. We took a few short walks about the property and, as the sun disappeared, began to feel that it was time for bed.

We all reported good sleep which was aided considerably by the pillows that we each carried from home. Those supplied would not have been quite so comfortable. I listened to classical music on my iPod and Bose noise-canceling earphones until I caught myself falling to sleep. Shut them off and enjoyed a full night of slumber. I took along some earplugs but they were unnecessary even though we were situated only about one-hundred meters from the main highway. The sounds, if any, soon disappeared and I was fast asleep.

We had been told by the employees of the place where we parked and slept for the night that we might be fortunate enough to see the Quetzal in the early morning. The Quetzal is the country's bird and its appearance has become more and more scarce nowadays. But, we were in the area where there have been sightings and we were up in the early morning to catch a view if it were presented. We were greeted with a gorgeous morning and the dew-covered meadows were tickling to my partially naked feet as I traipsed through the lanes with camera in hand.

After having completed all of our morning activities at our first stopping place, we packed up our gear and retraced our route just slightly to the Biotopo del Quetzal park. We parked and Paul paid our entrance fees. Paul and Ruth are residents of Guatemala so their fees are often a fraction of what those that are assessed foreigners or guests in the country.

The lush forest preserved in the Protected Biotope Mario Dary Rivera, on whose initiative it was established in 1976, is undoubtedly the most attractive natural site in this region. The park consists of 1,017 hectares of humid tropical vegetation that provides habitat for Guatemala's national bird, the quetzal. It is a small "lung" in Central America. The Biotopo is located in hilly terrain between the towns of Purulhá and Salama in the department of Alta Verapaz. Dense rains are usual between the months of October and January, the moisture emanating from the evaporated water of Lake Izabal, the Golfete and the Gulf of Honduras.

There are fairly steep pedestrian interpretive trails which take one up the side of the mountain. They are called Path of the Ferns (2 km) and Moss Trail (4 km). One can observe a generous variety of plants such as ferns, mosses, mushrooms and orchids among others. We opted for the shorter trail and, despite throwing on a light sweatshirt in the morning, I had to shed it quickly as I ascended the pathway. It was both humid and somewhat warm. We were the only ones visiting this lovely outpost of humanity on this day. However, I did notice that others were arriving as we departed the facility. Among them was a Canadian who had taken a room where we spent the night before. He was on a trek from Edmonton, Alberta Canada to the tip of South America.

If one is fortunate, one can expect to view quetzals, cayaya, woodpeckers, mot, emerald toucans and a variety of insects, lizards, and other mammals such as squirrels, mice, raccoons and howler monkeys. Sadly, we did not hit the jackpot and therefore did not see any of these fellows but we were treated to some great sights of the flora and were serenaded with the calls of the wild. Many birds, invisible to us knew that we were invading their territory and viewed our party of four. I suspect, truth be known, we were watched by several sets of eyes of creatures who peered at us from their safe vantage points. I did cheat though because we did see a quetzal encased in a plastic container for us to view. The one here is representative of what the males of this species might look like. From end of beak to extremity of tail, I suspect one could have measured over one yard or meter.

As we surely did, one will encounter many waterfalls and streams of pure, crystal-clear water.The Biotope has over 50 species of trees, many of which reach a height of 40 meters. These include the chip or shut, in different varieties, black, blond and white, eucalyptus, rubber, cypress and conifer.

From time to time on our pathway there were small palapa -type rest areas with benches where we took time to sit and enjoy the sights, smells and feelings of this gorgeous part of the world. A place well-worth the time and effort and one I could and would highly recommend.

From the Biotopo, we drove for about thirty kilometers to the town of Cobán.This city is located in the cool, humid mountains of northern Guatemala and the lush, subtropical cloud forests we encountered here are perched atop the watershed dividing the Yucatán Peninsula: the pristine rivers of Alta Verapaz feed into the Chixoy Usumacinta system (Gulf of Mexico) to the west, and into Lake Izabal Rio Dulce (Caribbean Sea) to the east. Cobán is the center of Guatemala's gourmet coffee-growing region, and also produces cardamom and allspice for export. A note here: John has attempted to acquire cardamom here and has found it nearly impossible to locate. It seems that the residents of this country are not fond of this spice. It produces a large quantity but the majority of it leaves the confines of Guatemala.

Because of its unique history, Alta Verapaz was never conquered; rather, Juan Matalbatz, the chieftain of the warlike Q'eqchi Indians, voluntarily converted to Christianity and allied himself with the Dominican priests. Interestingly, the indigenous people of Alta Verapaz have preserved their language and customs to a remarkable degree with the dominant language of the Alta Verapaz remaining Q'eqchi and Pocomchí, not Spanish. The Q'eqchis and Pocomchís are shy and wary of outsiders.

The elevation of Cobán is 5000 feet above sea level and the average temperature is 70 degrees. The annual rainfall of 70 inches makes the countryside green and lush. The dry season from March through May can be quite hot. Correspondingly, the winter months of December and January have been known to be very cold and damp for the locals.

While we were in the city, Paul did some banking and he located a gorgeous nursery or finca of orchids and various other plants. He and Ruth had visited this area previously and provided us wonderful and outstanding guide service throughout our travels. Returning from the city center just a few kilometers in the direction that we had earlier come, we found the Vivero Verapaz orchid finca.

The Vivero Verapaz orchid nursery is home to over 35,000 plants embracing 650 species of orchids collected by the late Otto Mittelstaedt. There are miniatures which can only be examined with a magnifying glass, and other varieties the size of large bushes. Some orchids are fragrant (such as vanilla and a coconut-scented variety) and others are fetid (such as an orchid pollinated by mosquitoes, which smells just like a sweaty mammal). And there are many examples of Guatemala's national flower, the Monja Blanca (white nun - Lycaste virginalis, var. Alba).

Paul bought Ruth a couple of varieties of these beauties, one of them an octopus orchid.

This is a family business and everybody was seemingly caught up in the enterprise. The guide who took us around had a sharp wit and seemed very knowledgeable. Our entrance fee here was Q10 per person.

There was a restaurant nearby the finca but the guide at the place suggested that it was just "so-so". That was all it took to convince us to search for other vittles.

We retraced our steps through the town and headed further afield. This time our destination would be Semuc Champey. But, before that we would find a great eating establishment where Paul and Ruth had before supped. For the sake of getting this posted, I will close this episode here and begin a new one in which I shall detail our lunch stop and carrying on with our SUV journey to the next beauty spot.

Our trek to Biotopo Del Quetzal, Cobán and Monumento Natural Semuc Champey - Night One

2010-02-06T16:35:00.003-06:00

On Wednesday, February 3rd, we prepared for our two-day outing away from La Antigua. We agreed to be ready at the targeted time of half past seven in the morning. Our plan for that day was to drive to a point near the Biotopo del Quetzal where we would stay for the night. Paul and Ruth had made reservations for the first and second nights days before and now we had finally come to the day of departure.

Ruth was up early and, from the looks of it, had planned and packed everything but the kitchen sink. Upon a quick and initial assessment, it seemed to me that she had packed sufficient provisions so that we might be able to sustain ourselves for a month and not for the two- or three-day sojourn that we had anticipated. It was obvious to me that she had made such journeys before and knew what needed to be taken and, probably without a list. The morning's temperature was in the mid-sixties with a few billowy clouds in the sky and a light very comfortable breeze.

We drove in the direction of Guatemala City on mostly a four-lane highway, sharing the road with few vehicles that morning. I rode shotgun in the front beside Paul, who maneuvered the vehicle on the various roadways (asphalt, concrete, gravel, mud, dirt, stone, etc.) on our entire journey. Ruth and John opted for the back seat of the large SUV and provided us with treats throughout the trip.

We stopped for fuel (diesel) in the outskirts of Guatemala City. Paul pulled into a non-self-serve where attendants were scurrying to provide spaces for cars, trucks, chicken buses and motos. There was a sign posted on the pumps that no credit or debit cards would be accepted for payment of petrol so transactions were accomplished en efectivo (cash only). That being the case, there was a man, small of stature, brandishing a weapon measuring nearly one-half of his height. It is common to see protectors of peace and of valuables with large rifles or killing pieces in front of buildings where jewelry is sold, at the entrance to banks and just about any other place where cash is traded for wares of substantial price or other assets of dear cost. Also, on trucks supplying water or sometimes even soda trucks delivering goods to restaurants or small shops. It is so common here in Central America that one soon forgets and it becomes the rule and not the exception. For that very reason, it is always refreshing to have new-comers visit here who bring with them the songs of innocence. Then, we see again what we first encountered on our initiation visit decades ago.

Another thirty to forty-five minutes were spent traversing the capital city. Guatemala City has an approximate population of three million souls. The 2002 census reported 2.5 million but, since that time, thousands of residents from outlying departments (states or provinces) have migrated to the capital city. Again, for first-time visitors, the largest city in Central American can provide for several shocks and needs for adjustment. As I stated above, hotels and restaurants might easily be rated by the number of armed guards at their doors. Even modest shops and fast-food establishments such as McDonald's, Domino's Pizza and Wendy's contract security personnel with a variety of weapons, ranging from handguns to shotguns to assault rifles, to protect themselves and their clients. Razor-wire and broken shards of glass often are visible and are employed to deter and detour would-be illicit entrants.

As in most other rapidly growing Third World cities, the cars and buses spew noise, unspeakable smoke and diesel into the atmosphere within the city. Additionally, the open fires from the peripheral shantytowns contribute their own gifts of severe pollution, especially during the winter and dry seasons. One other very obvious hazard for the pedestrian who might be maneuvering his way through overflow stock from nearby storefronts, sidestepping street vendors hawking razor blades and chewing gum, are the motorists to whom it would simply never occur to stop for anyone on foot.

But, we were not walking for which we were thankful. Paul needed to make a stop to deposit some checks into a bank account so we found a branch of BI (Industrial Bank) and parked nearby. Out of the car for a Chinese fire drill and we were soon settled for our next segment of the trip.

The distance between La Antigua and Guatemala City is approximately 24 miles and one can easily spend anywhere from forty minutes to fifty minutes from one city center to another. But, the distance from La Antigua to our final destination would be approximately 202 miles. Paul had received a Garmin Nüvi in which he had downloaded maps for the country of Guatemala. It appeared to us when we began to use the instrument that the download may not have been complete for it prohibited us to use the total instrument functionality. But, it did tell us where we were and gave sufficient information to avoid our going astray. The time estimates for the one-way journey are based upon travel in the USA and what was reported (about three and one-half hours) and what was actual (about 8 hours) was quite a disparity. Such is life in the slower lane. Among the myriad of obstacles are curves, fallen boulders, human beings walking in the middle of the road, dogs, chickens wandering about the roadway, slow to non-moving trucks, sink holes, stopped vehicles in the midst of the road and road stops by important officials wanting to check one's right to drive and own a vehicle.

I asked John to recall our stretch from the capital city to our first night's respite. He could not conjure up anything that would be very exciting and I opt to not embellish. The road for a portion of the way was four lanes but, as we stretched out farther from the capital city and began to see the numbers rise on the kilometer signs on the side of the road, we were treated to less-improved roads. We passed through rolling country which, at first was very arid and would provide great challenges to those opting to till the soil. Yet, throughout our journey, we viewed with wonder the plots cut out on the highest mountain sides where nourishment from the often volcanic soil would be mixed with the life-giving water carried by the owner or laborer in whose charge the fields were given. More often than not, we observed human labor as opposed to the ease of machinery whilst tending their crops. And, that we observed in the maintenance of the roadways and laterals. Part of our lack of attention to the details of the lay of the land is due to the fact that we have been here a handful of times. If this were our first experience, I would be able to see it as a new-comer and be able to paint a far better and more vivid picture. Sorry about that but I will try to take a few steps back and think of things that may be considered differences....never right or wrong and share them with you. The terrain and countryside is not unspectacular. It is gorgeous and varied from drier land to a very humid and verdant rain forest.

The first of four images above is an example of our morning's view of the pond just outside of the room that John and I shared. The second image is of Paul and Ruth sitting at the wooden table set up in our room where we ate supper and breakfast the next morning. It is where we played a few rounds of games when the day was far spent. The third image is a shot looking away from the front of the property and away from the highway. It provides fodder for the livestock and there are hiking trails in that direction. The fourth shot is of the main building, the front two-thirds of which comprised the restaurant, small gift shop and kitchen. The rear portion was where we slept the night. The final image is a good example of the shower known as a widow-maker which I refused to use. Cold water is fed into this contraption and is heated by the electrical unit it enters. Me thinks that the result could be an electrifying experience.

All distances are measured from a plaque in the capital city which reads zero kilometers and today's destination would be at Km. 166.5. We would be staying at an eco-lodge of sorts which also doubled as a working farm. On the last hour or so of our first day's journey, we ran into a mist which necessitated the using of wipers on the Suburban. It also colored the surrounding territory with a beautiful hue of green. We arrived at our destination and drove into the property. It sported a small shop and restaurant with both inside and outside seating. Perhaps most of the buildings in the area are sans heat and our hotel was no exception. However, in each of our rooms was a small fireplace in which was fixed a pile of green sticks. Within the fire pit was a starter which we lit and soon we had the benefit of a little heat plus a generous amount of smoke inside the room. Since the room that John and I had was a bit larger and also provided better light from outdoors, we opted to use it as an eating place as well as a setting for our game time after supper. The showers inside the bathrooms were equipped with what many gringos call a widow-maker. It is a mechanism that is said to provide instant heated water instead of the cold that would otherwise be available. John managed to use it and I opted to accumulate yet another day of grime and sweat. I figured that even though I could never be a widow, I did not take kindly towards being fricasseed.

Just across the road from our motel was a large field which we were told was planted in string beans. We were told that the product was not for local consumption but for the mouths of inhabitants of the USA. The total yield was destined for el norte. Our landlord told us also that broccoli was a large export for Guatemala and that it also was directed for the most part to the USA. Many of the fields are covered with a gray or black plastic. We observed this type of covering to span fields of many acres or vares. I was unable to determine why the earth is covered save for the wee slit for the plant through which to emerge.

In the next entry I will give you a report on our night at the motel followed by breakfast. Then, we will be leaving this motel and working farm to visit the Biotopo del Quetzal, the town of Cobán where we encountered the finca of orchids and, our final destination of Semuc Champey.

El viernes, el fin de semana

2010-02-02T12:14:00.000-06:00

In the USA we often hear others use the expression TGIF. Here the shop keepers and business owners perhaps have some type of equivalent since the population of this wee hamlet increases markedly during the weekends. Our landlords purchased tickets for us to enjoy Salute to Broadway which is being presented this evening at El Sitio. It is a gathering place and art openings and other group activities often are held at this venue. There is also a respectable eating establishment within the confines of the building where we have enjoyed vittles previously.

We attended the fete and joined perhaps four score of individuals. The vocalists and pianist were Guatemalan save perhaps two singers who, like us were ex-pats. It was an evening well spent and soon we were on our way afoot to our digs at the compound.

On Wednesday we will be joining our landlords on a sojourn to Cobán here in Guatemala. The city was founded in the early fifteen hundreds and was inhabited by Germans who flourished there supporting themselves by planting, tending and harvesting coffee from their fincas. This was all well and good until World War II caused them to be removed from the country (some say on the behest of the USA who may have pressured Guatemala to do so). Many of the Germans were removed from this area of Guate and moved to an interment camp in Texas. Some, so relocated, were exchanged for USA prisoners of war.

Though the Germans are not a unique body in that city anymore, the mix of cultures and families there has provided for blue eyes in some inhabitants, blonde hair and paler skin hues than what one might otherwise expect. We look forward to the visit there. It is perhaps 250 kilometers from where we are residing at the moment. The city now boasts a very high percentage of indigenous clad in their easily identifiable clothing and adornment. More rainfall is generally the rule in that area so the surrounding areas are very lush and there are many varieties of orchids blooming there. We are fortunate to be there during this time of year as we are told that the orchids are in their fullest now. In the immediate vicinity there are a number or caverns and caves what are open for public inspection and exploration. This we hope to do and we will carry our flashlights or torches in order to be always prepared. We are packing our swimming suits as well because we hope to take the vapours in thermal pools of varying degrees of warmth in the area.

All for this time. I am taking my laptop along with us but I am unsure as to connection along the way so I will also take notes. More later.

Yo no necesito un reloj despertador, porque tengo las aves que son regulares y de confianza

2010-01-26T12:43:00.004-06:00

I have no clock in my dwelling but I do have a calendar which I mark off regularly. The ticking of the clock and the passing of hours is something that I dismissed after the last boarding of aircraft on the way south from the USA. But, a natural option is to be awakened by the chirping of the birds which in most cases are more regular and dependable then time pieces and chronometers. If for some reason I miss them, I will hear the sweeping of the sidewalks that twist between and among the several dwellings in the compound. Should I fail to notice these signs, then the roar of the motos which will be parked in the callejón or alley just behind the complex. There are a couple of shifts and we can hear the roar as the engines are started and the acceleration as the operator makes his or her way onto the city streets. This is the mode of transport for the majority of the workers in the Casa Santo Domingo and it surely is a more favorable and speedy way to move about the city than by foot, tuk-tuk or taxi.

John and I decided to go out after we had arisen this morning for breakfast. We had visited a hippie place called the Bagel Barn other times that we have been here so wanted to check it out once again this morning. It is equipped with wifi for those who are unfortunate enough to have found residence at a non-broadcasting dig. Since we have wired high-speed here at our houses, we do not carry our laptops or smart phones about with us. Getting back to the fare and those participating in breakfast this morning at the Barn, we walked into a very crowded establishment and broke bread with a variety of humanity.

The types of bagels are listed on the board pictured to the left. One can get a variety of toppings, including butter. I ordered the cinnamon-raisin but found that they had sold out so I settled for a cup of black tea. John had a poppy seed garlic one with his American-style coffee.

Looking about the eating establishment, we saw folks clad in light-weight trousers, shorts, t-shirts and most had flip-flops on their feet. I had Levis, t-shirt and flip-flops. Some of those inside the shop had dreadlocks and most, regardless of attire seemed to have not seen a shower for a while. There were some that had been subjected to the tattoo artist's gun and dye while other old farts like ourselves were far more conservative and lack-luster. Every arc and hue of the rainbow surely was represented there this morning. I heard Spanish and English and perhaps a faint whisper of French this today. John reported that the bagel was worthy. We will return.

Antigua attracts many and varied types of people. That having been said, there are far fewer tourists, Spanish seekers and other casual visitors here than we have noticed in our other visits to this beautiful former colonial capital city. Instead of constantly attempting to dodge others using the very narrow sidewalks, we have had to share and dodge far less frequently this time than on any other visits here. Good for us but horrible for business owners and operators. The shop keepers seem to blame the economy stating that this past September was the most difficult and devastating sailing that they have ever experienced. Despite this, most have faith that things are leveling out and that from here there will be an increase in tourism, upon which this area is almost exclusively dependent. Incredibly, there are new restaurants opening. Strange to us because those which have been here for years are unable to attract more than a handful of diners nightly and afternoons find them nearly empty. Weekends are perhaps their salvation as residents of Guatemala City motor down to get away from the hassle and din of the city. But, back to my vittles this morning. I ate nothing at the Bagel Barn so felt it necessary and I was compelled to stop at another of our favorites which is situated very near where we first stopped, the Viejo Café. We managed to find a cup of coffee and one of tea for me and a wonderfully made chocolate croissant. Yes, it was also freshly baked this morning. Alas, the cinnamon rolls which I usually order were sold out. Another matron customer was bemoaning the fact that they were gone. So you see, it is not just I who finds them attractive and delectable. After having removed the feeling of need from my already over-sized stomach, we exited and went up the street about fifty feet where we visited with friends and former teachers at the CSA (Christian Spanish Academy). John will soon be ready for scheduled Spanish school and I am trying to convince him to select the best (in my opinion) school in the entire city. He would like to take afternoon classes which would be no more than two hours in duration. Most schools have requirements for four hours minimum but, due to the poor response from tourists and prospective students as of late, they have altered their requirements to accommodate any seeker of knowledge and fluency through their systems.

After having visited a bit at the school, we wandered in an easterly direction too near our favorite bakery, the Epicure. I told John that he could go on ahead and I would catch up with him. But, only after I had cased the bread and sweets display cases. Yes, I found exactly what I wanted: an apple tart (big enough for two to share), an almond croissant (still warm) and two cinnamon buns. All four items are wrapped carefully in Saran wrap and stored for future use in the freezer compartment of John's refrigerator. He has adhered strictly to his diet and continues to lose weight. I too am losing weight because we do not eat between meals and have employed walking as our exercise of choice here. Though we have no pedometers, it would be safe to say that we tack onto the soles of our flip-flops no less than five miles daily.

We are back at the compound at the moment. Sandie has deposited two balls at John's doorstep but has disappeared so, who knows where she is hiding? We will walk down to the Parque Central within the next two hours again and perhaps take a stroll about before we return to our digs.

We are reserving time at the end of February and into the month of March for friends who may or may not be visiting here as our guests. Because of that, we are thinking of doing some travel within Central America before they arrive. John today asked me how long I would need to be ready for a trip. I told him one day would be sufficient. So, we may be planning our get-away sometime soon. We are thinking of travel throughout the countries to our south which may extend to Panamá. Neither of us has ever been to the Canal Zone and we are thinking that this would be a good time to check that off our list of things to experience and see. Our tentative plans are to take the Pullman bus on our outbound legs, stopping long enough to clean up and become acquainted with cities along the way. Then, continue on to our next city until we have reached our ultimate destination. Sadly, we left all of our tour guides for Central America at home where they can do us no good. Fortunately we do have Internet and can do a good portion of our pre-planning in that manner. And, we can acquire books in English here as well. Before purchase though, I will look at two libraries here to determine whether or not there are reference books available to us for that purpose.

John and I have also thought of travel to and in Cuba but, as of today, citizens without family attachments or without press credentials or other papers cannot legally go to that island. Or, at least the portion not leased by the USA. But, it is still an option and I understand that they somehow manipulate their country stamp so that it will not appear in our passports. I believe this happens also when one wants to visit countries not friendly to Israel. The offending stamp does not appear in one's passport so that he or she may easily enter Israel.

Have a great rest of the day.

El fin de semana y el comienzo de una semana nueva

2010-01-25T22:55:00.001-06:00

Sunday was a great day which began with breakfast in the Philippi kitchen and dining area. John and I plus the Karlson trio were invited to join Paul and Ruth with the breaking of our collective fasts and, consequently, the breaking of bread. We were fed a blackberry juice made in the kitchen from fresh blackberries, coffee, tea, toast, scrambled eggs, fried plantines, papaya, guava jam, butter and some delicious homemade caramel rolls.

We then loaded into one of the Philippi SUVs and, joined by two additional friends of the family, headed for Guatemala City in the area of Plazuela España. It is a small park which is just a stone's throw from the Union Church were we all attended Sunday School as well as morning worship. In the first session, we joined a group of approximately fifty individuals and were led in a very interesting discussion. Afterward, we joined the balance of the flock in the main sanctuary where the morning service was about to begin. Since the Philippis usually sit in the front portion of the church and since I opted to be seated with them, I was unaware of the numbers behind me. Perhaps there were a couple hundred fellow worshipers.

Paul and Ruth have been residents and missionaries here in Guatemala for 53 years. Pictured below are a couple of snaps of them after Sunday services. On the second picture you can see a friend of theirs, Lida, originally from Guatemala but now a resident of New Zealand where she is an educator.

After services, we departed for Antigua on a divided highway which curves upward to about the middle point between Guatemala City and Antigua and then descends on a diabolically curvy ribbon of a highway leading into the colonial city we shall call home for six fortnights.

Paul had invited us to join him and some of their family members and other close friends to a commemorative dinner in Ruth's honor as the following day would be her seventy-eighth birthday. We celebrated around a large table reserved for us at one of the favorite eating establishments here named the Epicure. After the repast, we retired to the compound where we enjoyed a good time of fellowship and chatting around a birthday cake and a table spread with the makings for sandwiches. The day would not be complete before we had played a few rounds of games together. Oh, I neglected to tell you that on Monday Paul and Ruth will be the same age..at least for another ten or so months.

On Monday morning John stirred up some buttermilk pancakes and we both figured that they tasted pretty much like what we get at home. Thanks to the can of powered buttermilk that we take with us when we are here. There is no buttermilk available that we know of here in Antigua so we are prone to take the few items that are otherwise unavailable especially when we want specialty items. John has been very happy to have found during the last two visits here whole milk which is offered fresh instead of the shelf variety. He just has not been able to accept shelf milk and, since I am not a consumer of milk, I cannot confirm or deny his feelings.

For lunch, we took Paul and Ruth today to the restaurant Welten where we were seated adjacent to a fountain behind which were fresh orchids. On each side of our table were hammocks which, by the time we had consumed our vittles, might have been good targets for a good nap.Though the sunshine was abundant today, there was a tickling chill in the air which made a sweater very welcome indeed. Normally I do not inspect the plates of other diners so I cannot tell you what the others consumed for lunch but I believe Ruth had a chicken dish, John a pasta and I had beef. Since both Paul and Ruth took carry-away boxes, I suspect that there was adequate for each of us. And, we opted for no desserts.

An option for us at the Welten would have been to be seated about a pool of water that was covered with the petals of roses along with handfuls of yellow roses floating atop the water. It was around this pool about four years ago that we met some friends with whom we have still kept contact. Instead, we opted for the more intimate nook which backed up to the fountain and enjoyed the orchids, an example of which you can see to the left.

Speaking or orchids, one can easily acquire them from street vendors who offer them for sale at a give-away price. It is common to see sellers carry arms full of the gorgeous flowers.

Hammocks such as this one were hung along the entire wall space and were very tempting after we had consumed our lunch. Both because we had eaten and were beginning to be fatigued as the blood had rushed from our gray matter to our digestive area and because it had become a bit chilly. But, none of us opted for their comfort. This was a far fancier example of hammock than that I had ever seen except possibly for some in Cambodia where we encountered beauties that might have given these a run for their money.

On our return to the compound, we walked through the gardens of Casa Santo Domingo once again and I managed to catch one of the macaws asleep but yet perpendicular. On other occasions, I have been close enough to the lively birds to start them squawking quite loudly. This one could not be bothered. They securely sit on their respective perches throughout the day, perhaps two dozen lovely specimens, but mysteriously disappear each night before the light of day fades. I suspect they are carried to their retirement spots and are securely covered to ward off the light and any other uninvited intruder.

For those interested in birding, there are a myriad of different flying birdies in the heavens here that I have never before seen. John and I have yet to see the quetzal, the magnificent flying fowl and national bird of Guatemala. We hope to spot and record the quetzal when we travel later this month or next to Cobán.

For supper this evening, we invited the David Karlson family to join us at the Epicure. We walked the four or five blocks to the restaurant and seated ourselves in the far reaches or back forty of the garden. There was a bit of a chill to the wind that met us there but the tea and warmth of the food seemed to cause us to forget the discomfort, at least for a time. The Karlsons are down here with a group from Prairie Bible Institute in Alberta province, Canada. They are staying for a while here at the compound of Phillipis. David was born of missionary parents while his parents were serving in Germany. We had good times visiting and breaking bread together and their seven-month-old son was the prime center of attention. Can you determine why? He took a liking to our wait person and held out his hands quickly and eagerly for a change of venue.

Now night has visited us and we will soon be ready for bed. The stars are apparent and there is a cool breeze causing the curtains to bob gently as they respond to the wind. It will be a one-dog night I suspect though there are plenty of blankets available and even a quilt should I need more warmth. Very few of the homes or businesses here have heat and I can think of no homes in which I have been a guest where there are air conditioners. There are fans though which move the air when necessary. So, my door is no longer ajar but closed and the keepers of the night, Sandie and Chico are outside checking out the perimeters to ensure that no feline has suffered a misstep nor an invader intruded the property.

Until tomorrow, I wish you and yours well. Good night from the Philippi compound in Antigua!

Desayuno en el hotel Casa Don Rodrigo - por favor, tome un paseo conmigo

2010-01-23T10:10:00.002-06:00

I invite you to walk with me this morning as we meander the cobblestone streets and uneven sidewalks of Antigua. I will take you for your morning's walk and, along the way, we will view passersby, break our fast, do a bit of light shopping at the Bodegona and return to your dwellings.

Starting out from the Philippi compound, it is just minutes before eight but the gardener is already out and about, trimming the leaves of the overgrown banana and poinsettia bushes, sweeping the sidewalks as well as removing the droppings of the dogs who seem to enjoy the most obvious and apparent places instead of a hidden spot. We will unlock the rear door, cross the alley where no fewer than sixty motos are parked awaiting the shifts to end at the Casa Santo Domingo. Past the guard station and into the hotel proper for our pass through and exit onto the one-way street into the heart or center of the village. This morning, instead of walking in the shade, we will opt for full sunshine as the morning's temperature has not risen into the upper sixties quite yet. Normally, residents as well as visitors here will opt for the side where the sun-darkening rays of Mr. Sun will not affect them. Not this morning! Only the hardened soul not wanting to break with tradition will walk in the sombra this morning. I am clad in Levis, a t-shirt and flip-flops.

The morning is stunning with fresh, wonderful air, clear skies, the chirping of birds and smiles in the heart. The three volcanoes are perfectly visible from our vantage point and Fuego is not belching anything that is visible to us this morning. What a day and what a way to greet the dawn.

Just a block down the street we can see two people with mustard-yellow vests marked Control. In their hands were small placards that visiting vehicles must display in order to be legally within the city limits of Antigua. Each time that a vehicle which does not display the Antigua sticker enters the village, the operator must pay ten Quetzales and display such on their rear view mirror. Since there are no parking meters anywhere in the city, this is a way of generating revenue at least from those coming from afar for visits.

Continuing down the streets, we share the sidewalk with a number of folks who are also out walking to work, enjoying the beauty and, maybe also going to breakfast. Passing by us in the streets are cars, trucks and motos (many with more than one rider). Trucks of larger sizes are prohibited from entry into the city center and this ordinance is insured by the placement of three concrete barriers in the form of a pylon placed in positions such that vehicles wider than a certain width simply cannot pass without grave results. Our landlady Ruth has managed to connect her SUV on one or two occasions but we really do not talk about this. Her husband Paul has suggested that if she encounters such a situation in the future it might be better to stop quickly and back up instead of continuing the entire length of the vehicle. It is obvious as we look at these barriers that Ruth has not been the only one to have made a connection therewith.

During Semana Santa or Holy Week when alfombras or carpets are constructed in the streets and thereafter when processions pass over them, the middle barrier is removed so as to provide for unimpeded passage. I suspect it eases the situation for vehicles also during these times. I know that Ruth can smile during these times instead of hold her breath.

So, we continue down to the Casa Don Rodrigo and seat ourselves on an outside portion of the patio in the partial sunlight. John and I use Spanish when we are out despite the fact that many wait folks are both able and willing to communicate in workable English. Just to our left and outside of the eating area is an area where an employee of the hotel and restaurant was patting out corn tortillas and frying them on the stove. I did not know if they were of flour or corn so asked her. She assured me they were of corn. I ordered panqueques delgados (crepes), a plate of fresh fruit (papaya, cantaloupe, watermelon, grapefruit, banana, pineapple and lime). The pancakes were served with honey or maple syrup and butter. My drink of choice is tea (cinammon). John ordered huevos rancheros which were served with beans, salsa and tortillas which were delivered hot from the maker to my left. He also had a fruit plate but opted for coffee. As we tarry over breakfast, we can look out over the gorgeous gardens in which flows a beautiful fountain. In the background and far afield, one can see clearly the Volcano Agua which has long been dormant. It is clear today and it seems that nobody is out at least this early burning the fields to provide nitrogen as well as clear the land for the next crop. We can notice the ubiquitous odor of smoke in the air. One becomes inured to the smells and finally it becomes the rule and not the exception. Burning, whether inside the city or in the far off fields is something that is done all the time. And, in the distance as we gaze upon the horizon we can hear the reports of fireworks. These are set off to commemorate anniversaries of weddings, deaths, births and just about anything one can think of. They can arouse one from sleep often or they can blast off unsuspectingly during a lengthy period of calm and quiet. One must be ready at all times.

After breakfast, we exited the hotel and continued walking in the direction of the Bodegona. Entering the store, we quickly found the items we needed, paid for them (tried using MasterCard but only Visa accepted and only when one purchased at least 25 Quetzales) and exited to the pet shop next door. We are in the habit of giving Sandie and Chico treats and needed to replenish them. We purchased some dog biscuits and, after paying for them, exited and began our walk home. Now, we and the majority of the others were walking in the shady side of the street. The temperatures are now in the seventies.

As we entered the hotel again, we noticed six or seven macaws being carried on a wooden contraption to their perches within the garden areas. One of them was upside down while the others were behaving normally. John mentioned that it would have been a great photo op. Sadly, the camera I took along this morning had a memory stick that was unusable. Else, I would have recorded our morning's walk with images. Whistled for Sandie and Chico and only Chico appeared. He knew!!

Now John is preparing the birthday cake for Ruth. She is gluten intolerant so he is preparing the mix sans wheat flour. Monday is her birthday but we are all celebrating tomorrow, Sunday.

Thanks for joining me on our walk this morning.

To La Peña tonight

2010-01-21T21:34:00.006-06:00

The plaque visible to the left is one which is displayed at the entrance to Casa Santo Domingo. If you will snap the mouse on the image, you can get a better idea of just how old some of these buildings are. One of the walls in an apartment on the Philippi compound shares a wall from this former structure. Its walls are over a yard in width. I have nicknamed that dwelling Las Ruinas. We enter and depart through this magnificient old ruin which bears the marks of a terrifying earthquake when destruction spread havoc throughout this area. At one time, this was perhaps the largest administrative center between Lima, Peru and Mexico City.

But tonight we met our friend Mary who is down here on a mission which is vested with the responsibilities of providing fresh and potable water for villages not terribly distant from Antigua. She alternates between and among the Central American countries, doing various missions every year. She studies Spanish at one of the local Spanish schools but restricts her studies to only two hours daily. It seems to be sufficient to help her brush up on items that she has forgotten.

I mentioned previously about the restaurant and of its owners and managers. The gentleman pictured on the large drum is one of the owners. He and his wife have given up living on a sailboat and have retired to Antigua where they consider the restaurant a hobby. We talked with him and his wife this evening and he said that if they break even, it is a good year. They are not here to make money but to enjoy life which it appears that they do. The other owner is the man seated adjacent to the other owner on the left. We enjoyed a great supper and then waited for the combo to begin their haunting strains at half seven. In almost all eating establishments in this city and perhaps in all of Guatemala, one must ask for the check. Nobody rushes and nobody employed in most establishments would ever think of presenting a check on the table before it was requested. But, we finally did get the attention of a waiter and he assisted us with the closure of our happy experience. A fun time and we will again visit these happy people.

On our way home, we all commented on the deserted streets and town in general. Bear in mind that it was only half eight when we departed the restaurant. All of us have been here at least three times previously and it is absolutely certain in our minds that the economy has taken a hit here too. We were given assurances from the owners of the restaurant that each of the past two years has been poorer in terms of the generation of monies than the one immediately prior. We passed through the empty but lighted streets and finally made it to the Parque Central which was still decorated for Christmas. But, over to the west lateral of the park we spied the cathedral, La Catedral de Santiago, an image of which appears above and, as stated below in the Spanish, gorgeous during a night visitation and view! .

Ahora, un poco en español: La Catedral de Santiago, situada en el Parque Central, se empezó a construir en 1542. Fue derribada y reconstruida varias veces durante los dos siglos siguientes a causa de sucesivos terremotos. La actual catedral es mucho más pequeña de lo que fue en sus orígenes, ya que únicamente se reconstruyó una pequeña parte en el XIX. De hecho, ya no se la considera catedral, sino iglesia parroquial. Lo que más destaca de su interior no son tanto las obras de arte o la arquitectura, sino ver a los antigüeños rezar y orar a la par que no abandonan costumbres como la de decorar con guirnaldas vegetales los altares, colocar velas en el suelo... Es, además, un lugar tranquilo y muy adecuado para relajarse un rato.

Pero lo mejor, sin duda alguna, es ver la catedral iluminada por la noche, desde el Parque Central. Su belleza en impresionante... Uno de esos pocos edificios que no importa de que época sean o lo bien que estén hechos, sino las sensaciones que suscitan. La Catedral de Santiago nos devuelve a otro tiempo, de colonos, indios y criollos... Bellísima.

Construction on the original Catedral of Santiago, located adjacent to Central Park, was begun in 1542. The edifice was demolished and rebuilt several times over the next two centuries because of successive earthquakes. The current cathedral is much smaller than it was at origin because only a small portion was rebuilt in the nineteenth century. It is, in fact, no longer considered a cathedral, but a church. What stands out most about this church is not its art or architecture, but the fact that the residents of Antigua still pray and, simultaneously fail to abandon long-held customs such as decorating the altars with garlands and vegetables as well as the placement of candles on the floor .. . it is also a quiet and very suitable sanctuary where one can relax a while and maybe even pray.

But perhaps the most thrilling is to see the cathedral illuminated at night from the vantage point of Central Park. It bespeaks awesome beauty ... it is one of few buildings that, regardless of age or how well constructed, the Cathedral of Santiago brings one back to another time, of the colonists, the Indians and of the Creoles ... it is breathtakingly Beautiful.

Now we are back at the compound and making preparations for bed. The weather is absolutely gorgeous with daytime temperatures hitting into the seventies and nighttime lows perhaps reaching into the fifties. The windows remain open and a light blanket provides more than sufficient warmth. There is safety and security within the walls of the compound. Most are at least six feet in height but the front wall is nearly three yards in height. The dogs roam about the place as would sovereigns but they know who is welcome and who might be an intruder. The cats from neighbors seem to enjoy taunting them as they prance along the perimeters far out of their reach. Paul assured me though that they would be meat should they miss a step and fall into the gardens. Such is life here.

I am positive that I will be able to share more with you tomorrow. Until that time, I bid you adiós.

Thursday Market in Antigua

2010-01-21T13:39:00.007-06:00

As I mentioned in my earlier post today, Ruth was operator in charge of the diesel SUV that took us to the market. In all, we were six in the vehicle but one was discharged part way to the market place in order to complete some business. The rest of us arrived, paid the five Quetzales parking fee and wandered through the indoor and outdoor stalls. The aisles, like those of the chicken buses, are extremely narrow compared with North American standards and certainly would not fulfill the letter of the law regarding North American ADA standards. Nonetheless, all came...the quick and the almost dead, fit and lame, old and young. Cats, dogs, birds and a mass of humanity. Vending a la mano (five items or what could fit in the hand) or by dozen, money was exchanged and produce acquired. Ladies with large, heavy baskets atop their heads and laden with goods were passing by and demanding the right-of-way over men balancing loads on their shoulders and others wheeling push-carts.

My purpose in being there was to take some photos and to purchase some mandarin lemons. Ruth has made for us a heated drink and her recipe is simple: the juice of two mandarin lemons, freshly squeezed, mixed with water and heated. After the drink is sufficiently hot, add a touch of natural and wild honey. I will strongly recommend this to you (if you are fortunate enough to be able to purchase these items). Daisy, the maid of the Philippis, located my fruit and I negotiated a good deal. I decided to depart and meet John who had remained at home. But, on my way out of the expansive market, I espied some cascarones which I bought to surprise some unsuspecting person. They are the shells of eggs which have been filled with confetti and sealed. You already know the rest of the story. It is best by far to pick on somebody who is not already cross and crotchety.

Out of the market and no more dodging people and things. Called John and found that he had ventured out to Parque Central, the central meeting place in the heart of Antigua. It was only blocks from where I was and we met at a dandy little coffee shop known to us from many frequent and former visits. He had ordered coffee for himself with a croissant and I had a cinnamon roll. My thumbs are both up in judging these items. They had not spent the night on the shelves but had themselves been shaped and baked that very morning, just hours before consumption. Yummy! As we sat enjoying our petite breakfast, we viewed at least half a dozen sacks and bags filled to the brim with provisions from the produce and fruit market where I had just been. These were borne by employees and were destined for the kitchen of the cafe where we were eating. Instead of having large and noisy trucks humming in the streets, these folks had carried and toiled with these items on their backs and heads to the El Vieja Cafe.

On our ten block return trek to our house, we stopped a handful of times to look and not to purchase. Jade, cedar items, gold, silver and coral all nice to view but very dear in price. Now we are back at the compound and soon will be joining the Philippis for a fish lunch. The lunch was absolutely great. The fish monger calls on the telephone the day before he is scheduled for delivery in their area. Then, according to the needs and orders, he delivers the fish to the front gate. How is that for service?

Sorry about the placement of the images in the blog. I am using a new format and program and will have to fiddle with it in order to have narrative that is meaningful with the images. Bear with me and I will change. The first several pictures are from the market area displaying the vivid colors and, in some, the native costume. A few snaps were taken within the courtyard of the Casa Santo Domingo and the two were in the yard of the Philippis. You can easily view the volcano in one of the snaps taken in the garden of Phillipi.You will see the coffee cherries displayed in one image. Sadly, they have been cut and now only the green cherries are apparent and we await blossoming for the successive crop. One note about the images, in order to view them at a better size, one need only snap the mouse on an image and detail will become evident.

Tonight we are going to a restaurant and bar with our good friend Mary from Madison. We have connected with her now for about three years - two here in Antigua and the other in Peru. We are going to visit a restaurant owned and operated jointly by a North American couple and a man from Guatemala. It is called La Peña and provides nice music entertainment several nights weekly. The owners are friendly and know us so come by for a good chat when we appear.

All for now.

Differences

2010-01-21T07:59:00.001-06:00

As I write this, I am listening to KNAU (NPR Flagstaff, Arizona) where there are reports of school closings and delays due to a massive storm which brought about ten inches of snow to the area. That included Prescott, our town that we just left on Sunday. What a strange contrast to what conditions that I awakened to this morning. My first notice of life was the beautiful singing of the morning chorus of the birds which were easily heard through the open windows. As I opened my door, both Sandie and Chico (the two resident dogs) were there to greet me. In her mouth was a partially eaten avocado which Sandie thought would be an ideal object to fetch. Chico is far more sedate and has long ago given up such frivolity. Oh, did I tell you that I was barefoot when I wandered out into the garden? There I met the gardener who was already at work.

I have two cups of tea on my work area: one with a wonderful taste and aroma of anise or licorice and the other is a fine chai. In just about an hour, we will join the maid and Ruth who are going to the market here in Antigua. The open-air and covered market operates in full force three days weekly with Thursday being the heaviest market day of all. One bargains for everything there and the prices are stunningly inexpensive. Growers of vegetables and fruits come into Antigua from great distances to display and vend their wares, many bearing the burdens of their goods in large woven baskets balanced on their heads. One can find many exotic fruits and vegetables as well as meats of all varieties. It is easy to find animals for sale as well. Herbs to accent cooking and flowers to grace tables and shelves are abundant and can be purchased for little or nothing.

Measurements and weights are a mix of the English system, the Metric and the Spanish. One really has to learn what is used for different things. The vare, the gallon, the kilometer, the pound, the kilo are all used interchangeably but for different things which can make things a bit challenging. Oh, did I mention that the hand is used as well? I suspect the hand is used in the market area and usually refers to five a a particular item.

The gardener is going to cut the coffee cherries from the tree today. There are cherries on the tree with all hues and colors from green to dark maroon. Each cherry contains two coffee beans which will be processed by his family before it will be ready for roasting, grinding and a final application of brewing before the dark brown and strong brew will be sipped, often with sugar and heated milk by the final user. Our gardener harvests the cherries each year around this time and is given them by his boss. This year's crop is far less than it has been in the former couple of years but the surrounding coffee farms or fincas here in Guatemala mostly report a bumper crop. Coffee is one of the largest exports of this country.

Yesterday John and I were invited by our landlord to accompany him for a short trip to Guatemala City. He was going for a meeting and luncheon and we were going to use the time for shopping and looking around. Wal-Mart, instead of competing with a large similar-type operation in the capital city, purchased the company and has a gigantic store where it is easy to find just about anything that one might want or need. Thousands of familiar brands were available at very reasonable prices. Our agreement regarding return passage was to connect with Paul, our landlord, when he was ready to take the return trip to Antigua around two yesterday afternoon. We contacted him by phone and told him that we would catch a chicken bus home and see him later in the day. We crossed the street and flagged down such a bus and were soon on our way. These buses are ones which had been used until they were considered non-functional in the USA school systems and then were sold and driven through Mexico and into Guatemala.They are converted and given new and more powerful engines and reconfigured somewhat to accommodate passengers here. Most of the time, the buses are driven by very young operators and there is always a helper who collects fares and stands in the front door shouting the destination of the bus. As the buses begin to fill up, where kids used to sit two to a seat, we find that three or four sit on each side of the bus in the seats. It is very difficult to pass through the aisles when one needs to exit the bus but passengers jump up and then find their seats once again once one has passed by. We have often seen passengers who are nearer the rear emergency exit door open it and jump to the ground - a far easier passage and exit then maneuvering to the front. There are no cords to signal the driver or helper when one want to exit. Instead one hollers baja or la esquina and the driver stops and one can exit. The fare for each of us on our thirty mile journey was eight quetzales or just under one dollar. The buses are driven in most cases faster than private vehicles or vans so the journey is done with dispatch. Of course, it is often necessary to hang onto the handles on the backs of each of the seats in order to maintain ones seat and not zoom onto the floor.

I will dig out my camera before we leave for the market and before the cherries are harvested and try to give you some pictures of the coffee tree branches and some views at the market so that you too can share with us what we saw.

More later today (hopefully).

Estamos en La Antigua

2010-01-19T07:07:00.000-06:00

We touched down at La Aurora last night at 8:15, about a quarter hour ahead of our scheduled landing. The cockpit reported a temperature of 75 degrees when we departed from Miami on our flight but when we cleared Immigration and Customs, the temperature must have dropped at least ten degrees. And, when we ascended the mountains leading to Antigua, I viewed the Suburban's thermometer and it reported 59 degrees.

Paul and Ruth were at the airport awaiting our arrival and within about five minutes we were stowed and passengers in their vehicle. The approximately 40 kilometers were made with dispatch and, as we entered the compound, both Chico and Sandie were wagging their tails in greeting. We were soon in our little casita sorting through some of our baggage. Ruth invited us in for some tea and papaya and a good catch-up and gossip time since we last saw the Philippis in the USA in November 2009.

The morning song of the birds is apparent everywhere. But, why not? What's not to like? The flowers are in arrayed in their finest, the fruit trees are laden and the coffee tree is awaiting its harvesting. And, it is clear this morning so the volcanoes will be easily evident. The crystal clearness was also observed by me at just past midnight minutes before I retired last evening. I stepped outside my hideaway and gazed with wonder at the heavens. What a gift.....and, could the clarity be even greater than that we experience almost every night in the high desert of Arizona?

Breakfast will be served at the Philippi's home at half past seven this morning. Speaking of time, we here in Guatemala are on the same time as that of USA Central Standard. It seems that this morning's offerings will be whole-wheat waffles. Sounds great to me. More later!

T minus two days

2010-01-16T08:23:00.001-06:00

Less than two days remain now before we will be dropped at Sky Harbor International in Phoenix. Concurrent with departure, snow is forecast for Prescott and the northern one-third of mountainous Arizona. Quite a contrast to be sure. As much as we enjoy the beautiful and white blanket of the white stuff, we both prefer the warmth of the tropics and the far slower pace which we will soon be enjoying. Lows of fifty Fahrenheit and highs of perhaps seventy provide for comfort both day and night. Yes, we will be needing earplugs from time to time during the nights in order to remove the sounds of party, exploding fireworks and celebrations. Sure, we will experience power outages and the cessation of water flow but, fortunate for us, we will be staying at a compound where solar collection panels have long been employed for alternate power and also where a pressurized tank of water can supply the several dwellings with adequate water even in times of lengthy outages.

Soon we will be wandering on familiar cobblestone streets and uneven sidewalks and surfaces all the time dodging other ambulating passersby. One must be ever mindful and watchful not only for the uneven surfaces but also for the cars, trucks, tuk-tuks and motorized two-wheelers which all have priority and right-of-way over pedestrians on the streets and motorways. There is never any lolling or attitude-walking in cities of Guatemala. One must have a firm purpose and quickly execute it. Else, one could easily be among the dead and not the quick.

Some of our friends and family have wondered whether or not we may be subject to the tremors and earthquakes that have recently been felt and experienced in Haiti and now Venezuela. The answer is a firm yes. We have felt the earth shake in our sleep during past visits to Venezuela. And there is at least one visible volcano within the metropolitan area of Antigua which spews ash and other debris daily. It is common to see smoke during the day and the glow of fire during the night. One never knows when another disaster may present itself there. Antigua is no stranger to disasters of this type. Recorded devastating earthquakes since the early 1500s have visited and have resulted in utter havoc on this beautiful area of the world. The last one of consequence hit the city in 1717 and was responsible for the destruction of over 3,000 buildings. Its magnitude can be estimated at approximately 7.4 on the Richter scale.

So, with the extreme beauty and wonderful and slower way of life, there comes the possibility of danger. We are not dismayed by the possibility and do not ponder on the negative though. Instead, we look towards the slower life style and the beautiful lilt of Spanish in the streets and in Parque Central at the city square.

So, all things being equal, we expect to arrive at La Aurora airport in Guatemala City at half past eight on this coming Monday evening. We will be met by our wonderful friends and landlords the Philippis. After clearing customs, we will lade our bags and baggage in one of their trusty SUVs and head the thirty or forty kilometers to La Antigua. From that city I will next post and also upload some photographs.

Less than two weeks

2010-01-05T10:03:00.000-06:00

It seems strange to me as I sit here at the compound in Prescott to think that we will again be in Guatemala in under two weeks. As I awakened this morning, I checked the thermometer and found that it was 19 degrees F. That will all be fading history once we have arrived in La Antigua in the Land of Eternal Spring.

I have made some last-minute purchases for our friends and landlords the Philippis in Antigua. We will be met by Paul who will make the thirty-mile drive to La Aurora airport in Guatemala City. Then back to the beautiful Philippi compound where we will be staying for the next three months.

John hopes to begin his studies again this time but I will most likely not take any formal studies. Instead, I hope to converse with locals and carry on with my Rosetta Stone modules. Most of what I am reviewing in the on-line course I have already learned but it reinforces and encourages me to launch out into areas that I rarely use. I have already the first three levels and intend to add the next two before it is all said and done.

During the months that we plan to be in Guatemala, we hope to take a road trip with our landlords throughout the Central American countries which may culminate at the Canal Zone, Panama. Another possibility would be for us to drive over to Belize (former British Honduras). On the way to that country, it is possible that we might tarry a while at the expansive ruins of Tikal. Though we have been to Tikal before, its appeal does not quickly or easily fade.