Our overnight in Panamá went well and we were awakened at 4 in order to be ready for our taxi ride to the airport. All went well and the person who checked us in at the airport was the same person who had re-booked our canceled flight for the next morning. He remembered us and called us up with a smile. We got our boarding passes and assurances that the pilot would be showing up for today´s flight. Since I knew that there might be a problem with our return flight, I asked the person taking care of us for a computer print-out clearly showing what had been done and I needed something to show if there were any questions for our next day´s return.
We went quickly through security and into the departure lounge. Within minutes after six in the morning, our flight was called and we were issued out to a twelve-passenger high-wing, single engine aircraft. The company was initiating a new system or orienting new pilots and co-captains apparently since there were four flight crew instead of the normal two in the front seats. The configuration of the cockpit was two seats and, facing towards the front of the plane, there were four sets of double seats on the right-hand side of the fuselage and four single seats just across a very narrow aisle on the left-hand side of the plane. Those of us who were awaiting the flight filled all seats with the possible exception of one or two. I was seated in one of the single seats with a great view of the entire panel. It was great to see all of the instruments come to life as we began our journey. There was a constant conversation between and among the four airline individuals with a shuffling of papers and reports, etc.
We took off in hot and humid conditions and flew for approximately forty minutes from the south coast of Panamá up to the northeastern portion of the country. When we were within visual distance of the airport, we circled for a while over the beautiful islands dotted with gorgeous white sand beaches and palm trees. Then, the aircraft was pointed towards the rolling hills just inland from the ocean. We circled and turned over a couple of small hills and dipped deeply onto the concrete landing strip leading towards the shores of the Caribbean Sea.
We came to a stop at the end of the runway and turned towards the concrete block wall and gate that separated us from those awaiting boarding for the on-going leg and possible for the leg taking them back to Panamá. We exited the plane and were met quickly by the persons responsible for taking us by dugout boat to the lodge that we would call home for the next twenty hours or so.
Just as we landed and awaited our transport in the boat, another aircraft, far out-sizing our aircraft in size, landed with additional passengers for one of two lodges supporting the community that we were about to visit. From the second flight emerged several people, most of whom would be going to the other lodge. However, one lady, a citizen of the Ukraine, was going to join us at the lodge of our choice.
We were three individuals who would soon be loaded with our things into the boat. Aside from us, there were two in the boat, one running the outboard motor at the rear and one in the front. As we began our ten minute journey to our destination, we vied for position with another dugout canoe loaded with far more passengers which was bound for the sister lodge easily visible from our island.
Except for the main island which is small and densely populated with approximately 3,000 souls, all of the other islands in the proximity were either totally uninhabited save for the two islands where lodges are set up for tours similar to those we had booked. The islands are on a coral reef and the waters are a gorgeous emerald green and blue. There are waves that come splashing up on the windward side of the islands from the unrest of the Caribbean Sea. However, on the leeward side, there was considerable calm so we enjoyed the best of both worlds, so to speak.
We landed early in the morning and were shown to our thatched-roofed huts. Ours was set over the water on stilts and we could see the community in the distance as well as the other uninhabited islands and the one with the other lodge. We were instructed that there was both hot and cold water in the shower in the bathroom, a commode and wash basin. We were told to not flush anything other than human waste in the toilets but to discard toilet tissue and other items into the waste can beside the pot. There were two double beds made up for our use. Windows opened up towards the land and on the opposite side of the hut which gave us unobstructed views of the Caribbean Sea. There were two doors to the outside: one through which we entered from the land and one which provided exit onto the porch which was set above the water. On the porch were two hammocks. The doors and the windows pivoted on a central vertical pole or rod which caused the openings, when the windows and doors were open, to have wonderful and cool cross-breezes. We were shown the electrical switches for all the lights and for the overhead fan and were told that during the day there would be power from solar panels but, during the night, there would also be power available but this time from diesel generators which we later did hear humming gently in a soft lulling noise.
We were told that breakfast would be served in about ten minutes at the large circular palapa which was elevated higher above the water than were our cabins. We ambled over to the tables which were set for us and were given choices of eggs three ways with sausage, ham or bacon with orange juice, coffee tea and breads with butter and jams. After breakfast, we were told that there would be a tour of some of the uninhabited islands in the dugout canoe and that we could stop and go swimming if we desired. We were told that, from that time forward, when there was an activity, one of the employees there would blow a conch and it would mean for us to report for meals or for an activity. We were dismissed after breakfast and the Ukranian lady found her way to her dwelling as we also found our way back to ours. I spent the time curled up in one of the hammocks and fell fast asleep as I listened to the waves from the windward side of the island crash into the shores. We were within good eye-shot of the shore so we saw the lush and verdant jungles surrounding this gorgeous piece of earth. The islands were more than inviting themselves and soon I lost it as I began to check my eyelids for holes. The sun was barely breaking through the clouds as we landed earlier and it was overcast when we arrived at the island. But soon, the sun burned off the layer hiding us from its intense glow and I adjusted my hat so as to avoid disappointment from its burning rays. I also had a generous portion of sunscreen which I applied to the exposed areas of my body.
The conch sounded and I was awakened. It also stirred John from his nap and we were on our way to the general area where we were asked what we really wanted to do. Since the Ukrainian was unfamiliar with Spanish and since our guide knew very little if any English, I acted as an interpreter for her. She asked several questions about the community and some about the general safety of her money and passport. She also was interested in knowing if there was any possibility of purchasing marijuana. I did my best in getting information back and forth and the older of the two guides agreed to obtain five balls of the stuff for her. They told her (through me) that they would get if on the afternoon tour of the community which was scheduled for about 4. When she found that she would have to wait, she pulled out a USD100 note and waved it in front of the guide and asked me to question whether this might make a difference in getting it sooner rather than later. Needless to say, money spoke and she got her just desserts. So much so that she was passing Venus when the lunch conch was heard and we never saw her at meal time.
But, I am getting well ahead of my story. While we were still at the tables for breakfast, a dugout canoe with two Kuna men paddled up to the place where our dugout was tied securely to the dock. The younger of the two guides called us over and included us as he and the chief cook bargained with the fishermen for the acquisition of our food for lunch. The two fishermen were in a canoe made of logs and which seemed to be perhaps twelve to fourteen feet in length. They were clad in skimpy togs, maybe a t-shirt and a pair of undershorts and were barefooted.
Once the fishermen had paddled away, we asked for bottles of water and were given a beach towel and were loaded into the canoe. We circled our island and made a giant loop of our general area before we approached a beautiful white sand beach where the coconut palms were waving in the breezes. I took along the sunscreen and offered some to the overly white Ukrainian who gladly accepted and smeared some of the block onto the most obvious places. She had come prepared for swimming with suit in her bag but was not dressed for swimming when we waded from the boat onto shore. John and I were already prepared so hopped into the buoyant salty waters of the Caribbean. What a treat and how very comfortable the waters felt to us. They were ticklish cool and the breezes created an extra delight for us all. Meanwhile, the Ukrainian had ducked down behind one of the palms and soon emerged with her suit appropriately adorning her body. When she appeared, both of the guides hopped into the canoe and disappeared for about thirty minutes. When they finally showed, we saw them traipse from within the island itself and not from the boat. They had landed on another portion of the island so we followed them back to the canoe and were taken back to our island.
We were given a short lesson on the community which I tried first to understand in Spanish and then attempted translate for the Ukrainian. As I understood the narrative, these people had migrated from Colombia at some time in the past (perhaps centries ago) and settled on the coast of Panama. They are an autonomous people governed by a chief. There is one chief in their community of 3,000 souls who giverns, gives advice and, essentially runs the government. I understood the relationship of these people to be similar to that of the American Indian reservations where they are, in fact, a nation. The chief product of these people would be derived from fishing, agriculture or from hunting. In these islands, there are two other communities somewhat like this one. This one is the largest and has its own chief. There are two other chiefs, one each in the other communities. The community is connected to the mainland by a bridge. This is a critical connection as the schools are on the mainland as is all of the potable water. Additionally, administrative offices are there and I even spied a Mormon church constructed just to the side of the bridge. It had the tell-tale satellite dish outside of the front of the sanctuary.
The men and boys of the area dress as would anybody in a warm and humid climate in the Western hemisphere. The youngest of the male children had no problems running about the community as naked as a jay bird and this went for the wee girls as well. The women and girls in the community dress very differently. But not all of them are following their ancestors. However the majority of them still do and they can be observed at the community and some as far away as Panama City. There are three ways to reach the community: by air, boat or foot. John and I observed visitors flying adorned in their indigenous attire. The females who have continued to follow the customs of their specific culture have gold rings in their noses, have tattoos decorating the bridge of their noses, are wearing molas, have a red kerchief head covering and a very colorful wrap-around covering from their waist to nearly the ground. Many wear sandals and most have gold jewelery in their ears and around their necks. While most of the younger Kunas do speak and understand Spanish, the older inhabitants have absolutely no fluency in Castellano. Photography of general scenes in the community are perfectly acceptable and not forbidden but when one desires to take photographs of individuals, permission must be asked and granted in every instance. And, with that, generally one is generally expected to fork over one US dollar. To break this rule can land one on his way out of the community and away from the autonomous area of Panama. They chief will quickly expel anybody who breaks this rule.
There are six houses of worship on the island, including the Mormon church which is on the mainland. I saw a Catholic and a Baptist church there and we were told that there were a Seventh Day Adventist and perhaps Holiness churches on the island. While we did our afternoon tour of the island with our Kuna guide, we even spied two tall Mormon missionaries walking on the main street of the community. I say tall since most of the Kuna are far shorter than the countrymen in the balance of Panama that we had observed. To us they seemed a very friendly people and it was very easy to communicate. The young boys especially were like any group of boys that we might encounter anywhere in the world: curious and very friendly. They offered themselves for photographs on several occasions and, I am sure that they enjoy the US dollars that were given in exchange. The main central street of the community was lined with private dwellings where molas were hung out for sale.
John told me that this island had a far great occurrence of albinos than in the general population of the world. Here they are referred to as Moon Children. We observed at least two on our short time on the island. One of them was in a group of boys and he was sun-burned beyond imagination. I asked our guide if he had any protection against the rays of the sun and he told me that nobody on the island ever uses such. His lips were chapped until large blisters appeared and his upper naked torso was red beyond belief.
We were followed to our canoe for our exit from the island but before that, a portly gentleman called out to me in English. He wondered where in Texas I was from and I told him that I used to be from there but was no longer a resident there. He was a missionary from the Holiness church and had brought an interpreter along with him for his time there.
We went back to our island once again and wandered over to our island. We neither saw nor heard from the Ukrainian the entire afternoon. I suspect the five balls gave her sufficient potancy to send her traveling to Uranus and back again. She must have been purring. We settled into our wee shack and enjoyed the afternoon. I know that I went in and out of sleep as I heard the waves pound up against the pilings supporting our structure. The breezes were tickling as well. I noticed that a couple of lizzards were frolicking on my lamp. Was that rain that I heard pounding on the roof? Oh yes it was. What a wonderful and comforting sound that was. But, my one-third dry swimming stuff certainly would not be getting dry now. That was just fine by me as I had included large, plastic bags to stash my beach shoes and wet stuff if and when that should happen. But sleep called me again and the next thing that I knew, the conch was breaking our silence.
We headed for the main area where our boat was docked and there we saw our table set for dinner. As I mentioned before, we had fresh fish for lunch. It was served with the head attached. I was a good sport and, I must admit, it was wonderful. But, getting to our dinner...we had been set up both for breakfast and for lunch at separate tables. John and I both figured it was better to ask the Ukrainian if she would mind if we would join her. She was very happy for our company and we got to know a little more about our fellow traveler in this way. She was a part of a much larger group from the Ukraine and had branched out and gone on her own for a small portion of the trip. She would be meeting up with them later on in Costa Rica.
For super we were served lobster! With that we had a very nice tomato salad and, if I recall rice. We had fresh fruit for dessert. It was soon time for bed so I loaned the Ukranian a flashlight as she was fearful of the dark and she asked the guides to ensure that a large yard light remain on during the night. Before bed, I wandered outside on the porch over the ocean and I spied several flourescent items moving about the waters. I figured they were some type of sea life but they were beautiful reminders of the wonders of nature. We were not long in the land of consciousness that night and fell fast asleep soon after finding our beds. I awakened during the night and heard the wonderful sounds of wind through the palm fronds. Also, there were rains that came at night which was another wonderful gift.
The next thing that I was aware of was a call for Senor Bruce. It was already ten minutes to 6 in the morning and we needed to be at our main building with all of our gear packed for breakfast at 6. We got there in good time and ate our light breakfast with coffee and tea. By half past six we were met by our two guides and they said we needed to hie for the canoe for our transfer to the airport. We boarded in rain which had continued from our awakening time but were covered with parkas which shielded us and our belongings from the elements. In fifteen minutes we were waiting at the small shed that acted as terminal for this wonderful eden.
My next entry will cover our exit from the island and arrival for the last time in Panama City.
Except for the main island which is small and densely populated with approximately 3,000 souls, all of the other islands in the proximity were either totally uninhabited save for the two islands where lodges are set up for tours similar to those we had booked. The islands are on a coral reef and the waters are a gorgeous emerald green and blue. There are waves that come splashing up on the windward side of the islands from the unrest of the Caribbean Sea. However, on the leeward side, there was considerable calm so we enjoyed the best of both worlds, so to speak.
We landed early in the morning and were shown to our thatched-roofed huts. Ours was set over the water on stilts and we could see the community in the distance as well as the other uninhabited islands and the one with the other lodge. We were instructed that there was both hot and cold water in the shower in the bathroom, a commode and wash basin. We were told to not flush anything other than human waste in the toilets but to discard toilet tissue and other items into the waste can beside the pot. There were two double beds made up for our use. Windows opened up towards the land and on the opposite side of the hut which gave us unobstructed views of the Caribbean Sea. There were two doors to the outside: one through which we entered from the land and one which provided exit onto the porch which was set above the water. On the porch were two hammocks. The doors and the windows pivoted on a central vertical pole or rod which caused the openings, when the windows and doors were open, to have wonderful and cool cross-breezes. We were shown the electrical switches for all the lights and for the overhead fan and were told that during the day there would be power from solar panels but, during the night, there would also be power available but this time from diesel generators which we later did hear humming gently in a soft lulling noise.
We were told that breakfast would be served in about ten minutes at the large circular palapa which was elevated higher above the water than were our cabins. We ambled over to the tables which were set for us and were given choices of eggs three ways with sausage, ham or bacon with orange juice, coffee tea and breads with butter and jams. After breakfast, we were told that there would be a tour of some of the uninhabited islands in the dugout canoe and that we could stop and go swimming if we desired. We were told that, from that time forward, when there was an activity, one of the employees there would blow a conch and it would mean for us to report for meals or for an activity. We were dismissed after breakfast and the Ukranian lady found her way to her dwelling as we also found our way back to ours. I spent the time curled up in one of the hammocks and fell fast asleep as I listened to the waves from the windward side of the island crash into the shores. We were within good eye-shot of the shore so we saw the lush and verdant jungles surrounding this gorgeous piece of earth. The islands were more than inviting themselves and soon I lost it as I began to check my eyelids for holes. The sun was barely breaking through the clouds as we landed earlier and it was overcast when we arrived at the island. But soon, the sun burned off the layer hiding us from its intense glow and I adjusted my hat so as to avoid disappointment from its burning rays. I also had a generous portion of sunscreen which I applied to the exposed areas of my body.
The conch sounded and I was awakened. It also stirred John from his nap and we were on our way to the general area where we were asked what we really wanted to do. Since the Ukrainian was unfamiliar with Spanish and since our guide knew very little if any English, I acted as an interpreter for her. She asked several questions about the community and some about the general safety of her money and passport. She also was interested in knowing if there was any possibility of purchasing marijuana. I did my best in getting information back and forth and the older of the two guides agreed to obtain five balls of the stuff for her. They told her (through me) that they would get if on the afternoon tour of the community which was scheduled for about 4. When she found that she would have to wait, she pulled out a USD100 note and waved it in front of the guide and asked me to question whether this might make a difference in getting it sooner rather than later. Needless to say, money spoke and she got her just desserts. So much so that she was passing Venus when the lunch conch was heard and we never saw her at meal time.
But, I am getting well ahead of my story. While we were still at the tables for breakfast, a dugout canoe with two Kuna men paddled up to the place where our dugout was tied securely to the dock. The younger of the two guides called us over and included us as he and the chief cook bargained with the fishermen for the acquisition of our food for lunch. The two fishermen were in a canoe made of logs and which seemed to be perhaps twelve to fourteen feet in length. They were clad in skimpy togs, maybe a t-shirt and a pair of undershorts and were barefooted.
Once the fishermen had paddled away, we asked for bottles of water and were given a beach towel and were loaded into the canoe. We circled our island and made a giant loop of our general area before we approached a beautiful white sand beach where the coconut palms were waving in the breezes. I took along the sunscreen and offered some to the overly white Ukrainian who gladly accepted and smeared some of the block onto the most obvious places. She had come prepared for swimming with suit in her bag but was not dressed for swimming when we waded from the boat onto shore. John and I were already prepared so hopped into the buoyant salty waters of the Caribbean. What a treat and how very comfortable the waters felt to us. They were ticklish cool and the breezes created an extra delight for us all. Meanwhile, the Ukrainian had ducked down behind one of the palms and soon emerged with her suit appropriately adorning her body. When she appeared, both of the guides hopped into the canoe and disappeared for about thirty minutes. When they finally showed, we saw them traipse from within the island itself and not from the boat. They had landed on another portion of the island so we followed them back to the canoe and were taken back to our island.
We were given a short lesson on the community which I tried first to understand in Spanish and then attempted translate for the Ukrainian. As I understood the narrative, these people had migrated from Colombia at some time in the past (perhaps centries ago) and settled on the coast of Panama. They are an autonomous people governed by a chief. There is one chief in their community of 3,000 souls who giverns, gives advice and, essentially runs the government. I understood the relationship of these people to be similar to that of the American Indian reservations where they are, in fact, a nation. The chief product of these people would be derived from fishing, agriculture or from hunting. In these islands, there are two other communities somewhat like this one. This one is the largest and has its own chief. There are two other chiefs, one each in the other communities. The community is connected to the mainland by a bridge. This is a critical connection as the schools are on the mainland as is all of the potable water. Additionally, administrative offices are there and I even spied a Mormon church constructed just to the side of the bridge. It had the tell-tale satellite dish outside of the front of the sanctuary.
The men and boys of the area dress as would anybody in a warm and humid climate in the Western hemisphere. The youngest of the male children had no problems running about the community as naked as a jay bird and this went for the wee girls as well. The women and girls in the community dress very differently. But not all of them are following their ancestors. However the majority of them still do and they can be observed at the community and some as far away as Panama City. There are three ways to reach the community: by air, boat or foot. John and I observed visitors flying adorned in their indigenous attire. The females who have continued to follow the customs of their specific culture have gold rings in their noses, have tattoos decorating the bridge of their noses, are wearing molas, have a red kerchief head covering and a very colorful wrap-around covering from their waist to nearly the ground. Many wear sandals and most have gold jewelery in their ears and around their necks. While most of the younger Kunas do speak and understand Spanish, the older inhabitants have absolutely no fluency in Castellano. Photography of general scenes in the community are perfectly acceptable and not forbidden but when one desires to take photographs of individuals, permission must be asked and granted in every instance. And, with that, generally one is generally expected to fork over one US dollar. To break this rule can land one on his way out of the community and away from the autonomous area of Panama. They chief will quickly expel anybody who breaks this rule.
There are six houses of worship on the island, including the Mormon church which is on the mainland. I saw a Catholic and a Baptist church there and we were told that there were a Seventh Day Adventist and perhaps Holiness churches on the island. While we did our afternoon tour of the island with our Kuna guide, we even spied two tall Mormon missionaries walking on the main street of the community. I say tall since most of the Kuna are far shorter than the countrymen in the balance of Panama that we had observed. To us they seemed a very friendly people and it was very easy to communicate. The young boys especially were like any group of boys that we might encounter anywhere in the world: curious and very friendly. They offered themselves for photographs on several occasions and, I am sure that they enjoy the US dollars that were given in exchange. The main central street of the community was lined with private dwellings where molas were hung out for sale.
John told me that this island had a far great occurrence of albinos than in the general population of the world. Here they are referred to as Moon Children. We observed at least two on our short time on the island. One of them was in a group of boys and he was sun-burned beyond imagination. I asked our guide if he had any protection against the rays of the sun and he told me that nobody on the island ever uses such. His lips were chapped until large blisters appeared and his upper naked torso was red beyond belief.
We were followed to our canoe for our exit from the island but before that, a portly gentleman called out to me in English. He wondered where in Texas I was from and I told him that I used to be from there but was no longer a resident there. He was a missionary from the Holiness church and had brought an interpreter along with him for his time there.
We went back to our island once again and wandered over to our island. We neither saw nor heard from the Ukrainian the entire afternoon. I suspect the five balls gave her sufficient potancy to send her traveling to Uranus and back again. She must have been purring. We settled into our wee shack and enjoyed the afternoon. I know that I went in and out of sleep as I heard the waves pound up against the pilings supporting our structure. The breezes were tickling as well. I noticed that a couple of lizzards were frolicking on my lamp. Was that rain that I heard pounding on the roof? Oh yes it was. What a wonderful and comforting sound that was. But, my one-third dry swimming stuff certainly would not be getting dry now. That was just fine by me as I had included large, plastic bags to stash my beach shoes and wet stuff if and when that should happen. But sleep called me again and the next thing that I knew, the conch was breaking our silence.
We headed for the main area where our boat was docked and there we saw our table set for dinner. As I mentioned before, we had fresh fish for lunch. It was served with the head attached. I was a good sport and, I must admit, it was wonderful. But, getting to our dinner...we had been set up both for breakfast and for lunch at separate tables. John and I both figured it was better to ask the Ukrainian if she would mind if we would join her. She was very happy for our company and we got to know a little more about our fellow traveler in this way. She was a part of a much larger group from the Ukraine and had branched out and gone on her own for a small portion of the trip. She would be meeting up with them later on in Costa Rica.
For super we were served lobster! With that we had a very nice tomato salad and, if I recall rice. We had fresh fruit for dessert. It was soon time for bed so I loaned the Ukranian a flashlight as she was fearful of the dark and she asked the guides to ensure that a large yard light remain on during the night. Before bed, I wandered outside on the porch over the ocean and I spied several flourescent items moving about the waters. I figured they were some type of sea life but they were beautiful reminders of the wonders of nature. We were not long in the land of consciousness that night and fell fast asleep soon after finding our beds. I awakened during the night and heard the wonderful sounds of wind through the palm fronds. Also, there were rains that came at night which was another wonderful gift.
The next thing that I was aware of was a call for Senor Bruce. It was already ten minutes to 6 in the morning and we needed to be at our main building with all of our gear packed for breakfast at 6. We got there in good time and ate our light breakfast with coffee and tea. By half past six we were met by our two guides and they said we needed to hie for the canoe for our transfer to the airport. We boarded in rain which had continued from our awakening time but were covered with parkas which shielded us and our belongings from the elements. In fifteen minutes we were waiting at the small shed that acted as terminal for this wonderful eden.
My next entry will cover our exit from the island and arrival for the last time in Panama City.
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