On Wednesday, February 3rd, we prepared for our two-day outing away from La Antigua. We agreed to be ready at the targeted time of half past seven in the morning. Our plan for that day was to drive to a point near the Biotopo del Quetzal where we would stay for the night. Paul and Ruth had made reservations for the first and second nights days before and now we had finally come to the day of departure.
Ruth was up early and, from the looks of it, had planned and packed everything but the kitchen sink. Upon a quick and initial assessment, it seemed to me that she had packed sufficient provisions so that we might be able to sustain ourselves for a month and not for the two- or three-day sojourn that we had anticipated. It was obvious to me that she had made such journeys before and knew what needed to be taken and, probably without a list. The morning's temperature was in the mid-sixties with a few billowy clouds in the sky and a light very comfortable breeze.
We drove in the direction of Guatemala City on mostly a four-lane highway, sharing the road with few vehicles that morning. I rode shotgun in the front beside Paul, who maneuvered the vehicle on the various roadways (asphalt, concrete, gravel, mud, dirt, stone, etc.) on our entire journey. Ruth and John opted for the back seat of the large SUV and provided us with treats throughout the trip.
We stopped for fuel (diesel) in the outskirts of Guatemala City. Paul pulled into a non-self-serve where attendants were scurrying to provide spaces for cars, trucks, chicken buses and motos. There was a sign posted on the pumps that no credit or debit cards would be accepted for payment of petrol so transactions were accomplished en efectivo (cash only). That being the case, there was a man, small of stature, brandishing a weapon measuring nearly one-half of his height. It is common to see protectors of peace and of valuables with large rifles or killing pieces in front of buildings where jewelry is sold, at the entrance to banks and just about any other place where cash is traded for wares of substantial price or other assets of dear cost. Also, on trucks supplying water or sometimes even soda trucks delivering goods to restaurants or small shops. It is so common here in Central America that one soon forgets and it becomes the rule and not the exception. For that very reason, it is always refreshing to have new-comers visit here who bring with them the songs of innocence. Then, we see again what we first encountered on our initiation visit decades ago.
Another thirty to forty-five minutes were spent traversing the capital city. Guatemala City has an approximate population of three million souls. The 2002 census reported 2.5 million but, since that time, thousands of residents from outlying departments (states or provinces) have migrated to the capital city. Again, for first-time visitors, the largest city in Central American can provide for several shocks and needs for adjustment. As I stated above, hotels and restaurants might easily be rated by the number of armed guards at their doors. Even modest shops and fast-food establishments such as McDonald's, Domino's Pizza and Wendy's contract security personnel with a variety of weapons, ranging from handguns to shotguns to assault rifles, to protect themselves and their clients. Razor-wire and broken shards of glass often are visible and are employed to deter and detour would-be illicit entrants.
As in most other rapidly growing Third World cities, the cars and buses spew noise, unspeakable smoke and diesel into the atmosphere within the city. Additionally, the open fires from the peripheral shantytowns contribute their own gifts of severe pollution, especially during the winter and dry seasons. One other very obvious hazard for the pedestrian who might be maneuvering his way through overflow stock from nearby storefronts, sidestepping street vendors hawking razor blades and chewing gum, are the motorists to whom it would simply never occur to stop for anyone on foot.
But, we were not walking for which we were thankful. Paul needed to make a stop to deposit some checks into a bank account so we found a branch of BI (Industrial Bank) and parked nearby. Out of the car for a Chinese fire drill and we were soon settled for our next segment of the trip.
The distance between La Antigua and Guatemala City is approximately 24 miles and one can easily spend anywhere from forty minutes to fifty minutes from one city center to another. But, the distance from La Antigua to our final destination would be approximately 202 miles. Paul had received a Garmin Nüvi in which he had downloaded maps for the country of Guatemala. It appeared to us when we began to use the instrument that the download may not have been complete for it prohibited us to use the total instrument functionality. But, it did tell us where we were and gave sufficient information to avoid our going astray. The time estimates for the one-way journey are based upon travel in the USA and what was reported (about three and one-half hours) and what was actual (about 8 hours) was quite a disparity. Such is life in the slower lane. Among the myriad of obstacles are curves, fallen boulders, human beings walking in the middle of the road, dogs, chickens wandering about the roadway, slow to non-moving trucks, sink holes, stopped vehicles in the midst of the road and road stops by important officials wanting to check one's right to drive and own a vehicle.
I asked John to recall our stretch from the capital city to our first night's respite. He could not conjure up anything that would be very exciting and I opt to not embellish. The road for a portion of the way was four lanes but, as we stretched out farther from the capital city and began to see the numbers rise on the kilometer signs on the side of the road, we were treated to less-improved roads. We passed through rolling country which, at first was very arid and would provide great challenges to those opting to till the soil. Yet, throughout our journey, we viewed with wonder the plots cut out on the highest mountain sides where nourishment from the often volcanic soil would be mixed with the life-giving water carried by the owner or laborer in whose charge the fields were given. More often than not, we observed human labor as opposed to the ease of machinery whilst tending their crops. And, that we observed in the maintenance of the roadways and laterals. Part of our lack of attention to the details of the lay of the land is due to the fact that we have been here a handful of times. If this were our first experience, I would be able to see it as a new-comer and be able to paint a far better and more vivid picture. Sorry about that but I will try to take a few steps back and think of things that may be considered differences....never right or wrong and share them with you. The terrain and countryside is not unspectacular. It is gorgeous and varied from drier land to a very humid and verdant rain forest.
The first of four images above is an example of our morning's view of the pond just outside of the room that John and I shared. The second image is of Paul and Ruth sitting at the wooden table set up in our room where we ate supper and breakfast the next morning. It is where we played a few rounds of games when the day was far spent. The third image is a shot looking away from the front of the property and away from the highway. It provides fodder for the livestock and there are hiking trails in that direction. The fourth shot is of the main building, the front two-thirds of which comprised the restaurant, small gift shop and kitchen. The rear portion was where we slept the night. The final image is a good example of the shower known as a widow-maker which I refused to use. Cold water is fed into this contraption and is heated by the electrical unit it enters. Me thinks that the result could be an electrifying experience.
All distances are measured from a plaque in the capital city which reads zero kilometers and today's destination would be at Km. 166.5. We would be staying at an eco-lodge of sorts which also doubled as a working farm. On the last hour or so of our first day's journey, we ran into a mist which necessitated the using of wipers on the Suburban. It also colored the surrounding territory with a beautiful hue of green. We arrived at our destination and drove into the property. It sported a small shop and restaurant with both inside and outside seating. Perhaps most of the buildings in the area are sans heat and our hotel was no exception. However, in each of our rooms was a small fireplace in which was fixed a pile of green sticks. Within the fire pit was a starter which we lit and soon we had the benefit of a little heat plus a generous amount of smoke inside the room. Since the room that John and I had was a bit larger and also provided better light from outdoors, we opted to use it as an eating place as well as a setting for our game time after supper. The showers inside the bathrooms were equipped with what many gringos call a widow-maker. It is a mechanism that is said to provide instant heated water instead of the cold that would otherwise be available. John managed to use it and I opted to accumulate yet another day of grime and sweat. I figured that even though I could never be a widow, I did not take kindly towards being fricasseed.
Just across the road from our motel was a large field which we were told was planted in string beans. We were told that the product was not for local consumption but for the mouths of inhabitants of the USA. The total yield was destined for el norte. Our landlord told us also that broccoli was a large export for Guatemala and that it also was directed for the most part to the USA. Many of the fields are covered with a gray or black plastic. We observed this type of covering to span fields of many acres or vares. I was unable to determine why the earth is covered save for the wee slit for the plant through which to emerge.
In the next entry I will give you a report on our night at the motel followed by breakfast. Then, we will be leaving this motel and working farm to visit the Biotopo del Quetzal, the town of Cobán where we encountered the finca of orchids and, our final destination of Semuc Champey.
I asked John to recall our stretch from the capital city to our first night's respite. He could not conjure up anything that would be very exciting and I opt to not embellish. The road for a portion of the way was four lanes but, as we stretched out farther from the capital city and began to see the numbers rise on the kilometer signs on the side of the road, we were treated to less-improved roads. We passed through rolling country which, at first was very arid and would provide great challenges to those opting to till the soil. Yet, throughout our journey, we viewed with wonder the plots cut out on the highest mountain sides where nourishment from the often volcanic soil would be mixed with the life-giving water carried by the owner or laborer in whose charge the fields were given. More often than not, we observed human labor as opposed to the ease of machinery whilst tending their crops. And, that we observed in the maintenance of the roadways and laterals. Part of our lack of attention to the details of the lay of the land is due to the fact that we have been here a handful of times. If this were our first experience, I would be able to see it as a new-comer and be able to paint a far better and more vivid picture. Sorry about that but I will try to take a few steps back and think of things that may be considered differences....never right or wrong and share them with you. The terrain and countryside is not unspectacular. It is gorgeous and varied from drier land to a very humid and verdant rain forest.
All distances are measured from a plaque in the capital city which reads zero kilometers and today's destination would be at Km. 166.5. We would be staying at an eco-lodge of sorts which also doubled as a working farm. On the last hour or so of our first day's journey, we ran into a mist which necessitated the using of wipers on the Suburban. It also colored the surrounding territory with a beautiful hue of green. We arrived at our destination and drove into the property. It sported a small shop and restaurant with both inside and outside seating. Perhaps most of the buildings in the area are sans heat and our hotel was no exception. However, in each of our rooms was a small fireplace in which was fixed a pile of green sticks. Within the fire pit was a starter which we lit and soon we had the benefit of a little heat plus a generous amount of smoke inside the room. Since the room that John and I had was a bit larger and also provided better light from outdoors, we opted to use it as an eating place as well as a setting for our game time after supper. The showers inside the bathrooms were equipped with what many gringos call a widow-maker. It is a mechanism that is said to provide instant heated water instead of the cold that would otherwise be available. John managed to use it and I opted to accumulate yet another day of grime and sweat. I figured that even though I could never be a widow, I did not take kindly towards being fricasseed.
Just across the road from our motel was a large field which we were told was planted in string beans. We were told that the product was not for local consumption but for the mouths of inhabitants of the USA. The total yield was destined for el norte. Our landlord told us also that broccoli was a large export for Guatemala and that it also was directed for the most part to the USA. Many of the fields are covered with a gray or black plastic. We observed this type of covering to span fields of many acres or vares. I was unable to determine why the earth is covered save for the wee slit for the plant through which to emerge.
In the next entry I will give you a report on our night at the motel followed by breakfast. Then, we will be leaving this motel and working farm to visit the Biotopo del Quetzal, the town of Cobán where we encountered the finca of orchids and, our final destination of Semuc Champey.
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