B&B Cielito Sur

Our time at this wee hostel in these gorgeous mountains in New Switzerland is coming to an end. We are occupying one of four dwellings on this coffee plantation or finca. Also living here are the owners of this property, the husband of at least partial Chinese descent and the wife who was born here in Panama of a North American set of parents. The wife's mother lives in one of the homes on the finca and is in her 91st year. She was born in Alvin, Texas but she and her husband decided to try Panama for six years and then probably go to Alaska. Instead of doing the move, they decided to stay here for the rest of their lives. So, this wee B&B was at one time was vested in the names of the parents of Mrs. Lee.

Mrs. Lee prepares breakfast for us each morning and, I have to be honest, they are some of the best delights that we have had for breakfast in Central America. Through their coffee finca runs a beautiful stream whose sounds we can hear day and night. There are flowers growing throughout the property and from this stock comes bouquets for our room as well as each table in the breakfast room. Breakfast is served from half past seven to half past nine and there are always two choices for main dish which changes each morning. Additionally, there are four or five types of bread, jams, four types of cheeses, jellies, peanut butter and cream cheese available next to the toaster. There is always fresh fruit, some cut up and some, like bananas, in their peel. There are cereals and granola on the buffet as well as two or three types of fresh juices. Coffee from their own finca as well as tea and chocolate are provided along with milk and yogurt. Water comes from springs and is potable here from the pipes.

Our rooms have high-speed Internet available and we do have TV and many DVD movies which are available for viewing. There are puzzles, books, games and many other activities available here. The owners have directed us to a couple of national parks as well as a private dwelling on which was discovered pre-Colombian artifacts and petroglyphs. The National Geographic featured this finca in its February 1950 issue and a copy of some of its pages were displayed at this site.

There is bird watching available here and one can view over 8 different types of humming birds come to two feeders that are placed within view of all diners at breakfast. They are unafraid of us and are not bothered by our movement. There are tiny ones and some about half the size of the robin. They come in all hues.

There are indigenous folks living amongst the Panamanians who still wear very colorful dresses. They resemble mumus and the adult as well as the children are so adorned. The men follow the western style of dress but some of the males do wear a woven straw hat that tends to set them apart.

There are Chinese shop owners or operators here in the small villages where we have gone for snacks, sodas and milk. The still speak Chinese to their little ones but manage a haltering Spanish with the villagers. The US dollar is the currency here in Panama and when one gives bills and there is change, we do get Panamanian hard currency in change instead of pennies, nickles, dimes and quarters.

The first day of arrival, we drove about five or ten miles until the road came to an end. It assisted us in our climb to Las Nubes (the clouds). At the end of the road was a national park but the gates were closed tightly. Our inn keepers told us that one would need to arrive before three in the afternoon to ensure entry. Chalk that one off the list! We have been told that the national bird of Guatemala (which is very scarce in that country) can be viewed here in Panama. Some occupants of the room adjacent to ours reported seeing an adult male with all its plumage and a juvenile on their walk-about earlier this week. I asked if they would share an image that they had taken and it was not good enough quality to even know that there was a fowl in the image, let alone a Quetzal. So, I passed on that one too.

On Sunday we rose early and had breakfast. I had eggs Florentine and ham plus all the goodies described above. John enjoyed French toast alone this morning plus many of the objects from the buffet. I asked the innkeeper wife about the possibilities for church this morning and she told me that the nearest one was a Seventh Day Adventist church. I told her it was a bit late for this week and we would already be back in Guatemala for next week. She told me there was Catholic and, she thought Methodist. I opted to not go this week. Instead, John mapped out a nice trip down to David and then up in the mountains again but, in a different direction. It was a much more heavily populated town where there was a jazz festival on the town square. Pity them as it was raining today. But, that neither hindered us nor those seeking to nod or tap their heels or toes. We all came. This area is heavily into agriculture with coffee fincas abounding. There were coffee trees laden with blossoms as well as red and green cherries. But, after we had driven several miles around the town, we decided to take our midday meal. John had read about a famous restaurant that had been visited by Teddy Roosevelt, Garbo and many other names you might recognize. It was in the midst of this town and just about four or five blocks from the town square where we had heard and seen the combo players in action.

We entered this old dowager and found our seats next to an open window. There were only two others dining at this time (12:30). We would soon be in for a regal treat. We were given menus and cold water poured in glasses. Next came a large portion of butter for each of us and two types of freshly baked bread. Then we ordered: John a piece of steak with garlic mashed potatoes and I, a piece of pig accompanied by a stack of dirty rice in which had been incorporated minced bell peppers of varying colors and onions. My pork chop was over an inch in thickness and very moist. We started our meal though with a bowl of onion soup.

John made a comment only after he saw and began to sample his delightful meal. He said (and I agreed) that had we had only the onion soup, we would have given it perhaps a 6 or 7 out of a possible 10 but when the entree or plato fuerte arrived, that 6 or 7 dimmed and we both gave a resounding 9 or 10 to the entire presentation. We had both seen that there were postres (desserts) on the menu but neither one of us had a speck of room after we had consumed our food up until that time. But, we tarried. And, the longer that we sat, the more tempting became the notion to at least look at the menu once again, just to make sure!

We needn't have asked because the waiter came to our table with menu in hand. Can you imagine? And, it took us no longer than two minutes to concur that two pieces of lemon meringue pie needed to be removed from their inventory. That together with coffee for John and black tea for me finished out a remarkable repast. We agreed that the vittles were more than good, they were superb.

But, to be honest, even though there are tons of ex-pats at this location, we longed to return to New Switzerland where the scenery is superior and there are far fewer folks. The area we visited is handy to goods and services but one is removed from the utmost beauty of nature...the calmness and the stillness. And, a place where you can be alone, together with yourself.

We decided to take our leave and drove the approximately 34 kilometers to David where we had spied a super market. John needed an eraser for his Sudoku puzzles and he was almost out of deodorant. He picked them up and we were on our way again. From the parking lot of the super market, we turned onto the Panamerican Highway and drove about 40 kilometers to our turnoff up into the hills and to the town of Volcan. We reached Volcan and purchased a quart of milk for our cold cereal tonight and then turned right onto our road to New Switzerland. Another 10 kilometers and we turned into the coffee finca and Cielito Sur.

Tomorrow we will be having breakfast and, after a drive down to David's airport, we will turn in our car and board our flight to Panama City at around 1:15 in the afternoon.